Avg: 2.9 from 89 votes
|FA:||Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, 1962|
|Page Views:||4,858 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Nov 10, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The pitch has everything, thin face about 40 feet up, with sparse gear, wild laybacking over the halfway roof, a sqeeze chimney (yes!) and finally steep handjamming right at the top, where the 150 foot of exposure over the Upper Ramp feels more like several hundred feet of air over South Boulder Creek. Add to this a few pigeons, some suspect holds here and there, very few chalkmarks, and definitely no crowds. All in all, this pitch has atmosphere out of all proportion to its rating, hence the name, which I'm sure comes from the similarity to the steep juggy climbing on slightly dubious rock found in the Dolomites.
On a practical note, (ho-hum) this route is located atop the Upper Ramp, left of Upper Ruper and the huge shallow cave, and ascends a proud arete. Start to the left, run it out up an easy face, then move right to the main face. Up thin face here, then join the obvious crack. Stop when the rock doesn't go up anymore. Rap Chockstone Chimney back the base. If you'd rather not use long slings on everything, you can belay just below the halfway roof, but I find it hard to stop....