The Yellow Spur
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 1,180 votes
Trad, 6 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor, Dave Dornan, 1959. FFA: R. Robbins, P. Ament, 1960s|
|Page Views:||155,409 total · 570/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1 direct. Scramble onto it and arrive shortly at some caked-on chalk and pin scars below a break in a long roof band. This was Kors original start; it is 5.10 and protects with tricky small stopper placements.
P1 standard. A much easier start ascends a short dihedral 20 feet to the right. Cut back left, then climb further up huge holds over the exciting roof, and head right to a tree belay-5.9 (about 30 feet of elevation gain).
P2. Go up left, then up a fantastic dihedral, with face moves at the end, to another tree, 5.8.
P3. Head up cracks and corners to a rotten band; continue over a scary bulge and another crack to a beautiful, exposed ledge, also 5.8.
P4. Fifteen feet right of the belay, ascend a large, moderate dihedral. Hand traverse right, avoiding a huge overhang, and climb another 5.8 corner up and then right to a small, exposed stance. You can also belay on a large ledge 10 feet lower with less exposure.
P5. Climb straight up, make a delicate step right into a thin crack (with several pitons) and ascend that (the crux) to a scary detached flake [now gone]. Make a beautiful ascending 5.7 traverse up left to lower angle terrain and a belay on the arete, or climb straight up past bolts at 5.10 and reach the same belay.
P6. Head up the spectacular 5.6 arete to the summit of Tower One.
A standard rack up to 3".
Per Danny Gilbert: there's a lot more fixed pins on this route than (6). I know the route pretty well, and from memory:
P1 - 3 pins (2 now) (one before the traverse above your head, and (now one) at your feet before you pull the roof).
P2 - 2 pins (now one - the one just before the 5.8 dihedral is gone, and one right in the dihedral).
P3 - 1 pin (2 now, the 1st is old style, with the ring on it in the first open book). There is one more above a semi-rotten ledge.
P4 - 2 pins and a bong (now only 2, one pin in that easy low 5th section, one pin just before the hand traverse. The bong is at the top of the hand traverse is gone).
P5 - I think there's 5 pins? All of them in the 'Pin ladder'. Then you've got two finishes, the bolt ladder has 3, and the Robbin's Traverse has at least one pin before the belay.
I can't think of any on pitch 6 (depending on where you belay after the Robbins Travers, there is 1 more pin either high on P5 or low on P6).
If this is actually useful at all, I can get more exact info.
Eds. Some updated info from Todd Felix is in italics.
Now turn back to the west and scramble up a few hundred feet, aiming for a large notch on the south side of the tower.
Go through the notch, then down big stone steps about 30 feet, the left another 30 feet to reach two big rap bolts. A 100' rap will NOT quite reach the ground, but it's an easy downclimb. Be careful.
You're now on a nice grassy ledge. Scramble west, over a fin of rock (do not go up to the higher notch). Over the fin you'll find a nice ledge with rap chains. Rap 80' to another set of chains, then 90' to ground. A short walk up north up the ledge will take you to your packs.
More About The Yellow SpurPrinter-Friendly
Fixed Hardware Report (6)