Avg: 3.7 from 963 votes
Trad, 6 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor, Dave Dornan, 1959. FFA: R. Robbins, P. Ament, 1960s|
|Page Views:||134,208 total · 572/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
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P1 direct. Scramble onto it and arrive shortly at some caked-on chalk and pin scars below a break in a long roof band. This was Kors original start; it is 5.10 and protects with tricky small stopper placements.
P1 standard. A much easier start ascends a short dihedral 20 feet to the right. Cut back left, then climb further up huge holds over the exciting roof, and head right to a tree belay-5.9 (about 30 feet of elevation gain).
P2. Go up left, then up a fantastic dihedral, with face moves at the end, to another tree, 5.8.
P3. Head up cracks and corners to a rotten band; continue over a scary bulge and another crack to a beautiful, exposed ledge, also 5.8.
P4. Fifteen feet right of the belay, ascend a large, moderate dihedral. Hand traverse right, avoiding a huge overhang, and climb another 5.8 corner up and then right to a small, exposed stance. You can also belay on a large ledge 10 feet lower with less exposure.
P5. Climb straight up, make a delicate step right into a thin crack (with several pitons) and ascend that (the crux) to a scary detached flake [now gone]. Make a beautiful ascending 5.7 traverse up left to lower angle terrain and a belay on the arete, or climb straight up past bolts at 5.10 and reach the same belay.
P6. Head up the spectacular 5.6 arete to the summit of Tower One.
Per Danny Gilbert: there's a lot more fixed pins on this route than (6). I know the route pretty well, and from memory:
P1 - 3 pins (one before the traverse above your head, and two at your feet before you pull the roof).
P2 - 2 pins (one just before the 5.8 dihedral, and one right in the dihedral).
P3 - 1 pin (old style, with the ring on it in the first open book).
P4 - 2 pins and a bong (one pin in that easy low 5th section, one pin just before the hand traverse. The bong is at the top of the hand traverse).
P5 - I think there's 5 pins? All of them in the 'Pin ladder'. Then you've got two finishes, the bolt ladder has 3 or 4 bolts and the Robbin's Traverse has at least one pin before the belay.
I can't think of any on pitch 6.
If this is actually useful at all, I can get more exact info.
Now turn back to the west and scramble up a few hundred feet, aiming for a large notch on the south side of the tower.
Go through the notch, then down big stone steps about 30 feet, the left another 30 feet to reach two big rap bolts. A 100' rap will NOT quite reach the ground, but it's an easy downclimb. Be careful.
You're now on a nice grassy ledge. Scramble west, over a fin of rock (do not go up to the higher notch). Over the fin you'll find a nice ledge with rap chains. Rap 80' to another set of chains, then 90' to ground. A short walk up north up the ledge will take you to your packs.