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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,729 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

From near the top (West end) of the upper ramp, this interesting route is visible as a massive left-facing dihedral, with a West-facing chimney in its back. The reason for its name is the amazing number, size and variety of chockstones in the chimney- Even fist sized chockstones wedged behind torso-sixed chockstones, that in turn are caught between the wall and the car-sized chockstones choking the crack.

Most climbers more likely know this climb as a rappel than as a route, as the anchors at top reach down from Ruper, Italian Arete, Body Tremors and Upper Grand giraffe, back down to the top of the upper ramp, and easily close to the Song of the Dodo anchors (AKA Vertigo Raps).

The climb is fun tough, and is worth doing. Despite the blocky nature of the climb, it is still good. The 5.6 grade seems to account for wandering left tor right to take the easiest line, but advanced climbers can still enjoy this, taking a direct line on either side or even pulling the largest chocks as roofs.

Rap down 110' to the Upper Meadows from the rap anchors up top. A 70m rope meets the ground conveniently, but be careful with a 60m.

Protection

A standard rack with nuts and cams. hexes might be the most appropriate tool of all, should you have them.

Photos

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