Type: Trad, 320 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Rossiter and Ken Brink 1986
Page Views: 718 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

Phallus in Suck-It-Land is a good route with a great name!Start from the Upper Ramp as you would for Alice in Bucket Land, on the right side of the large cave that is just left of the start for Upper Ruper. This route doesn't see much traffic but has good moves and wild exposure, expect some pretty spicy runouts on lichen covered rock. The holds stay juggy most of the way but be careful what you yard on.

Pitch 1: 120 feet 5.8 SFollow the first pitch of Alice. From the right side of the cave move up and right through the roof to big holds on the face then angle up and left through the hueco covered face to a double piton anchor below an arching roof. You may also start with Upper Ruper and climb the first 15 feet of that route, clip a piton and cut hard left 5.8vs.

Pitch 2: 100 feet 5.8 SMove left from the belay and turn the roof at an obvious weakness (5.8 S). After the roof head straight up the face following the path of least resistance and pass through two roofs (both 5.8) until you reach a decent ledge to belay. The exact line, grade and protection on this pitch probably vary a bit for each climber, there are many options, choose what looks best for you keeping the small tree near the top of the face in your sights as a landmark and savor the exposure.

Pitch 3: 90 feet 5.4Can be combined with pitch 2. Follow jugs up to the saddle where Upper Ruper ends.

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Protection

The standard stuff will do but if you want to avoid runouts as much as possible bring some bigger stuff to put in the huecos, maybe large tri-cams.

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