Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Chris Archer & Dan Hare, 1988
Page Views: 2,776 total · 12/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Apr 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the meandering face pitch just left of Apple Strudel, almost to the left corner of the buttress before the broken-up West Chimney zone. Though it wanders a bit, the climbing is varied and aesthetic and the cruxes are well protected. Be aware of rope drag (you can break this into two pitches by belaying atop the small pillar at half-height, but there is only one bolt there).

Climb a slightly dirty corner to a little roof. Clip a bolt, step right and clip another bolt. Head up into the right-facing corner and out onto the easier face above. Four or five more bolts above you protect the crux headwall, which has a tricky little roof in it.

Belay at the big tree atop Apple Strudel.

Descent Options:
1) A double-rope rappel (60 meters?) from here gets you back to the ground.
2) You can make two raps down with a 60M(?) stopping at the bolted anchor at the top of Apple Strudel's first pitch. This requires the first person to clip a directional or two.
3) With a single rope, it is an easy traverse left to the Dirty Deed (West Chimney) rappel.

Protection

This pitch has plenty of bolts but you'll still need gear. A set of stoppers and some small cams or TCU's should suffice.

Photos