Elevation: 6,785 ft
GPS: 39.932, -105.286 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 253,082 total · 1,416/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.

The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.

Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.

One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.

Fauna

Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.

65 Total Climbs

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Location: Redgarden - Tower One Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Tower One

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 56
Dirty Deed
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 230
Icarus
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 65
Body Tremors
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 708
Ruper
Trad 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 185
Alice in Bucketland
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 81
Italian Arete
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1,027
The Yellow Spur
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 237
Grand Giraffe
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 183
Super Slab
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 78
Art's Spar
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 90
Psychosis
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 297
Vertigo
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 94
Doub-Griffith
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Apple Strudel
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 45
Ignition
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirty Deed
 56
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Icarus
 230
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Body Tremors
 65
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Ruper
 708
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Alice in Bucketland
 185
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
Italian Arete
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
The Yellow Spur
 1,027
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Grand Giraffe
 237
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Super Slab
 183
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Art's Spar
 78
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Psychosis
 90
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Vertigo
 297
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Doub-Griffith
 94
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Apple Strudel
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Ignition
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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