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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.

The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.

Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.

One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.

Fauna

Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Tower One

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Icarus
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Body Tremors
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper
Trad 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Alice in Bucketland
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Italian Arete
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Yellow Spur
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke & Mirrors
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Super Slab
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Psychosis
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art's Spar
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Superspar
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vertigo
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doub-Griffith
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ignition
Sport
Icarus 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Body Tremors 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Ruper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Alice in Bucketland 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
Italian Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
The Yellow Spur 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Grand Giraffe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Smoke & Mirrors 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Super Slab 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Psychosis 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Art's Spar 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Superspar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Doub-Griffith 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Ignition 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
High resolution panorama of Tower One (2,528 megapixels).
(The viewer requires Adobe Flash.)

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/re…

The Vertigo Raps are visible in this panorama of Tower Two:

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/re… Nov 19, 2010
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
Vertigo Rap beta:

Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15’ higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20’ below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15’ for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge. Apr 7, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
WARNING!!!

The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
Apr 5, 2006

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