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Routes in Kloof Alcove

Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kloof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

The Kloof Alcove is a short but very overhanging wall of nicely featured sandstone on the west side of the large gully leading up to the Yellow Spur etc. It faces due west and holds good shade until noon or one during the hotter months.

The routes here are steep and pumpy with little or no fixed protection. Though the routes often follow overhanging crack systems, the climbing takes place primarily on buckets and face holds. Fixed anchors at the top of the left side of the wall facilitate top-roping and lowering.

A new route, Iron Monkey (formerly known as Lycra Clad Donkeys), located here may be the most difficult route here in the Canyon.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

Approach as for the West Face of Redgarden Wall. About halfway to the base of Yellow Spur a signed trail branches left to the Kloof Alcove. Follow it.

Total approach time: 15 minutes.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kloof Alcove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
mtoensing
Boulder
mtoensing   Boulder
Watch out for poison ivy on the approach. It's everywhere! Jun 5, 2013
Lycra Clad Donkeys: First Female Aid Ascent: Marcella Baldwin, July 1995. 5.10a-C2 Apr 17, 2010
I would like to add information to the Kloof Alcove page:

Where is the Paligap listing? First Free Ascent, Skip Guerin and John Baldwin February 1981. Listed in "Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon" page 240 #8. Old school grade 5.12a. Small Friends and wires protect steep holds. Belay at a ledge with two pins. Stem corner above to the top. Apr 17, 2010
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
It's beyond me why anyone would want to change a name as sweet as Lycra Clad Donkeys. Lycra Clad Monkeys might however be a suitable compromise. I just like the image. May 16, 2008
The grade of 14a / 8a+ is correct, BUT...free name variation Iron Monkey was given by the 3rd? ascentionist who thought he was the first. First ascentionist?? (it IS an obvious line in Eldo) Raphael Daly named it Noir, after an anime series. I prefer to call it the original, Lycra Clad Donkeys (err...Asses). May 20, 2006
Lycra-Clad Donkeys/Iron Monkey. 14a. Apr 1, 2006
What is the route to the right of Extendogap, up the the this seam with a fixed piece on it - to a arete/or dihedral??? Apr 1, 2006

More About Kloof Alcove

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