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Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Element X T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X
Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Genius Loci S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Layton Kor, Jack Turner, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Steve Wood, Ed Wright, 1970.
Page Views: 33,676 total, 164/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is my favorite route in Eldo. It is not too long, but is one of the most elegant lines possible. It begins with a long scramble up a ramp 5.0, to some 5.2 soloing. It is hard to describe exactly how to get to the base of it, consult a guidebook.

The first pitch is a 50' horizontal traverse above a roof. The exposure consists of 150 feet of air straight to the ground, very exposed. The first half of the traverse is the crux, but the second half will still keep you pumped. Make the weaker climber in the party lead it as it is scarier to second it. The belay is semi-hanging off some fixed webbing that can be backed up with nuts a little higher. If you haven't climbed in Eldo much, you might find the pitch a bit burly for the grade.

The second pitch is 60' long and goes up a steep and beautiful 9+ finger crack to a ledge with two bolts. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up.

The third pitch is .9- and about 110'. Start with delicate moves, up to a bolt, then a big stem to the right. Easier ground continues up the upper ramp, where you can belay off a tree with fixed gear.

Descent: with one rope, you can rap off Vertigo (up the ramp from the finish) or the Naked Edge (down the same ramp, including a 5.4 move). With 2 ropes, you can rappel the route and end up halfway down the approach ramp.

Protection

Three really short pitches. The first pitch has two bolts on it protecting the crux move, and the third pitch has a bolt at the crux You don't need much gear, bring a few TCUs, some stoppers and a couple cams around a #1 Camalot. A #3 Camalot is nice to have near the top of P2, but not necessary.

Photos

Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
I found a slight variation on P3. After the bolt and barn door move, Rossiter gives the remainder of the route a grade of 5.2 to the tree. If you instead stay on the face and traverse left up the diagonal band in a straight line to the Predator anchor, you get 30' or so of exposed 5.7+ or so climbing that protects reasonably well with medium-sized Camalots. Apr 12, 2017
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
Linking P1 and P2 felt harder than the either of the crux pitches on Outer Space or Super Slab, with a definite redpoint crux at the end of the 2nd pitch (at least for the onsight). My buddy Kirtis who tried it a couple of days later felt the same way and also came up with the brilliant name "Crucifying Alice" for the obvious and full value link up into Alice in Bucketland. Mar 6, 2017
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Bolts ... the kids these days! Jan 4, 2017
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Always been a 'high value' route. It was particularly interesting before the bolts and cams. There were thousands of ascents without the bolts - hard to believe they've been allowed to stay. Jun 17, 2016
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
This route is everything we love about climbing... dead vertical, truly exposed, and beautiful unforgiving movement. Pitches are short, but every inch packs a punch. Jan 20, 2016
geomark
Okanogan, WA
geomark   Okanogan, WA
What the heck are bolts doing on this wonderful, easily protected climb. How dare someone put bolts in a climb that has been climbed hundreds of times with just stoppers and Friends. I haven't climb it in a while, obviously, but it should never been desecrated with bolts!!! If you can't climb trad, you have no business defacing a climb of this caliber so you can clip you draws. Shame on you! Go bolt some limestone somewhere. Aug 21, 2012
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Talked to Rob C. who says he put in the bolts summer '88 for Rosy. Mystery solved.

He also did a huge effort to upgrade belay anchors and replace 1/4" lead bolts that year (way before it was vogue). Mar 20, 2012
Here's my contribution to "where did the bolts come from discussion." My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I seem to remember a debate in the late '80s/early '90s about a route going in that went straight up from the start of Rosy Crucifixion. The FA party placed a bolt that was also clippable from the start of Rosy.

I seem to remember Rob Candelaria being involved in the new route and the name was tentatively called 'Plastic Jesus', but in doing a bit of research, it appears that Plastic Jesus is a variation to the third, not first, pitch of Rosy and it was done by Roger Briggs and not Rob Candelaria. Hmmm.

Too bad about the bolts being added. Back in the day, you just went for it from the start to the horizontal crack. Of course, that was back when only Real(TM) men went climbing:-) Mar 20, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I moved to Boulder in 1995 and did the route twice with no bolts on P1 before it was retro-bolted. I recorded notes (in autumn of 1996 according to my climbing journal) on the opening moves were on the offset nut placed to protect the moves, as there was no such bolt.
I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it.
The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Taimi and in early 1997 when I did it with Dianne but sprouted some time prior to spring of Y2K when I did the route with Joseffa Meir for the first time with the bolts there.
You do agree that those are nice new (< 15 years old) bolts, right? You will note Larry Hamilton's post here that there were no bolts on the route originally (his FFA with Erickson) and another who mentions no bolts in the '80s. Also, Rossiter's 1989 Boulder Climbs South fails to mention bolts on P1, but then again so does his Y2K book (written 1999?).
So, this raises a very interesting point, when exactly when did they go in and by what process? Dec 20, 2011
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
I started climbing this in the early '90s, and I'm pretty sure there were bolts on the first pitch then and since.... Dec 19, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
That's really odd. I won't say what rack you did or didn't climb the route on, and I won't say how hard it was for you... but I can tell you that you didn't clip a "first bolt" on it 18 years ago. There were not any bolts on it in 1993... or 1994 or 1995 or 1996... I am not sure when they arrived. Dec 18, 2011
It was 18 years ago that I climbed this route, and I think I only remember two fixed pieces on the first pitch and none anywhere else. After clipping the bolt as the start of the route, I don't remember it feeling run out at all. I don't remember the climb being any harder than .10a which it was rated at the time. We climbed it with a rack consisting of nuts, a number 8 hex, a brown Lowe tri-cam, a blue Metolius TCU, and a red and yellow Camalot, because that was all I could afford at the time. I climbed almost everything I did in Boulder with that rack. However I lived in Eldo Springs for 3 years and climbed in the canyon daily, so I think my perception of both grading and boldness was off. I've since revisited the canyon and much of the stuff I found pedestrian, seemed much harder. This was one of my first leads in the low ten range and remains something I cherish. Dec 16, 2011
Phill T
  5.10b/c PG13
Phill T  
  5.10b/c PG13
Finally got on Rosy yesterday. As far as clipping the first bolt, I'm 6' with a +1 index and could not quite reach it from the ledge. After some fidgeting around, I stepped up, locked off with my left on a pretty good crimper, and clipped that sucker. Once you get off that ridiculously pointy crimp above the first bolt, it's jugs through the traverse. Don't dawdle like I did. Strenuous, but not too bad once you commit. My belayer was also spraying me down with beta en route, so I'm sure that helped, too. No individual move is harder than 10a, but the pump factor.... Purple/gray/blue Mastercams for the 2nd half of the traverse can be placed pretty much at will.

I followed p2 and rather than doing the somewhat greasy layback to get through the crux. I found some delightful face climbing just to the left of the crack. Somewhat balancy, but all there for sure.

P3; Don't F2 on your belayer. 8, 8+ up to the first available pro. Pretty chill to the traverse bolt after that. Big move to a big jug with shiddy feet, slam in a (or 3 like me) small cam (0.4 c4ish) and finish it up.

Ascent/descent: 4th class it up past Suparete (stash your bags on this ledge) from the Redgarden trail rather than doing the ramp. Easy 5th class kinda down a chimney, and then up a column to get to the actual start once you get to the base of Ruper. Vertigo raps and down the trail to end up at your packs. Aug 10, 2011
Erik Werner
Boulder, CO
Erik Werner   Boulder, CO
I agree w/David above, definitely feel the crux on p2 is technically harder than that of p1 - especially how polished it's gotten. I'll lead p1 again, but have yet felt comfortable enough on that section of p2 to take it on. Interestingly, one time while seconding I got suckered into those huecos right of the p2 crux, couldn't get back into the route because the step across was too slick, and instead headed right and then up and across. Nice option, but no pro to speak of and the rock is suspect in places - but still easier than the on-route option (9 vs 10). Sep 27, 2010
I first attempted this classic in the olden days before the bolts. I cast off and managed to combine the first 2 pitches. My partner, much shorter than I, could not follow the 1st move. Tension made things worse and there was no communication. I eventually lowered and cleaned to the 1st belay, untied and pulled the rope and retied. I then reversed and cleaned the traverse. Pumped, I chose to leave a biner and lower off the first manky pin rather than reverse the first move.
Best not to push your second on this climb. Sep 17, 2010
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
As of yesterday, we did not see the two fixed wires on the traverse after the bolts mentioned by Hamlet73. I placed a #0 and a #00 C3 after the second bolt, and we felt the traverse was well-protected since I could reach the first bolt. We called P1 5.10a, both of us would say the second pitch is technically harder, maybe 10b. I got suckered into the face holds out right on P2 since the chalk stopped abruptly in the crack, DOH!

We used the Vertigo rappel anchors which worked pretty well: On the third pitch my partner ran it out to the tree on the upper ramp which is a stellar shady belay. We stayed roped up, but you can solo from here to the top of the ramp and look down the notch at the top and spot a two bolt anchor. Exposed scramble, or just stay roped up to get to the anchors, rappel west exactly 25 meters over a big overhang to another two bolt anchor that is hard to see from above. Over another big overhang to the ledge below rapping off the ends of our 50m rope we dropped 2 inches to the ledge. Change shoes, walk off to the north where it connects to the access trail. Aug 8, 2010
RBF
  5.10c/d PG13
RBF  
  5.10c/d PG13
Tony could not help it, he was condescendent as usual.

I was by no mean suggesting to change bolt position nor add more bolts.
I was simply and generously posting a creative solution to safely climb a WELL DOCUMENTED decking situation on pitch 1 of this specific climb.

If only useful betas would be posted on those forums and comments, mp.com would be pleasant to visit. Jun 24, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
"The first bolt is too far to the right and too high.
As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall.
I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them.
Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative."

You may or may not understand the charter of the FHRC, but they/you/I can't just go plugging bolts in anywhere/everywhere, as it is not acceptable to the larger community to retrobolt routes. The guidance and charter of the A.C.E. FHRC is to replace and maintain existing anchors when necessary, add anchors under certain justifications, and review (and generally approve) new lines.

They can't just slap in a bolt lower for convienience. It wasn't put higher to be unfair, it was put higher because that is where a pin once was--- which is the only justification for having the bolt at all. You can read Larry Hamilton's recall of the FA a few comments above this one for a better history and understanding.

The first time I did Rosy Cruxifixtion (there WAS NO BOLT or pin, but you can get a stopper roughly where the pin was) was with Taimi Metzlers, who is 5'2" and managed to get up there. Since then I've followed Dianne Connelly. She is 5'3" and she did fine because she was ready for that sort of climb. Since then among the verious times I've done it, at least once was with Joseffa, who lead the first two as a single pitch without the bolts. She's 5'5".

I don't want to sound elitist, but one of the possible points of view then available is that that retrobolt should thus be removed and thus eliminate the fairness problem such that all people can get up there and place the stopper like we did for a decades... before someone got a permit to add a bolt under an erronious justification that a *good* pin had once been right there.

As it stands, you figured out how to manage it and without making the route 'pedestrian' and changing it's nature still properly managed the risk within your acceptabile limits. And that's an achievement in climbing terms. Jun 17, 2010
RBF
  5.10c/d PG13
RBF  
  5.10c/d PG13
Both of us felt 5.10c/d is more appropriate than 5.10a.
I agree with 5.10c if you are 6 foot tall (my partner is).
If you are smaller like 5 foot 8 as I am, it is about 5.10d in my opinion.

Say, you know the moves from a prior ascent.
Only then you would feel a little closer to 5.10a.
But def not 5.10a for an onsight.

The first bolt is too far to the right and too high.
As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall.
I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them.

Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative.
A Stiffy or a 2 feet long wooden stick as a stick clip I would encourage to use.
Conveniently, there was a used up 2 feet long stick where the belayer sits.
We had no shame what so ever at using it! :)

I forgot if this was said or not, but I vaguely remember someone mentioning this possibility without having actually done it.
Here it goes:
As far as the rappel from the bolted anchor atop pitch 2, I confirm that two 70 m ropes, tied up together, reach the ground with the stretch without having to downclimb the slab. It brings you back to your pack safely!

My partner dragged the 2nd rope to the top of pitch 2.
But there is no need for that.

Secure the rope on the bolts.
Lower your partner to the ground from the bolts atop pitch 2.
The climber on the ground ties up the ropes together, the climber up on the wall hauls it up through the chain links and now has a two ropes rappel to the ground.

What a super classic this route is.
With creativity, safe route overall, well protected. Jun 17, 2010
BTW, found an interesting rap sequence with a single 60m rope that can get you back to the start of the climb.

From the bolt anchors at the top of P2 the first person raps down almost to the slings at the end of P1. Look left and you will see a bolt with a single link (one of the bolts on Predator). Easily pendulum over to that bolt, clip a draw onto it and through the rope. Rap down a little more and you can easily "pull yourself" over to the 2nd bolt of Rosy, clip a draw into that and through the rope. This will position the first rappeler above the ramp right below the start of the climb. Scramble up the ramp and set up a "belay" (tie the ends of the rope into the "belay anchor").

The 2nd person now raps down, unclips the bolts (kind of reversing) the sequence, and the 1st person can "pull" the rappeler onto the ramp.

As always -- make sure the ends of the ropes are well knotted. Rappeling is dangerous, etc. Apr 19, 2010
percious
Bear Creek, CO
 
percious   Bear Creek, CO
 
I think P2 is as-hard or harder than p1 on this climb. Dead vertical, it's hard to get a good rest stance, and the moves are technical. I failed at placing adequate gear and took a 25 footer (cam in flaring crack failed). Thank goodness I did not take out my belayer in the process. Be careful out there folks! Jul 6, 2009
Hamlet73
Boulder, CO
 
Hamlet73   Boulder, CO
 
I have done the route yesterday, and currently the webbing at the first belay is not in great shape. It might need to be replaced soon.

There are also two fixed nuts on the traverse on the first pitch, both after the second bolt. They seem in good condition and we clipped them both.

Great route. Jul 6, 2009
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
I don't think there's any move harder than 10a on the first pitch. Bring 2 blue Aliens and you can pretty much sew up P1. Exciting climb! Nov 23, 2008
Neil Wachowski
Fort Collins, CO
 
Neil Wachowski   Fort Collins, CO
 
Followed entire route. Leader linked first two pitches and belayed from top of P2, putting long slings on pro near the first anchor. Felt comfortable to be belayed this way. As others have said, since I was fortunate enough to be able to focus just on the climbing and not on my nerves, P1 felt like 10a. Sep 28, 2008
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
The first pitch felt 5.10+, perhaps it was the traverse and exposure. I would hesitate to rate this 5.10a, I thought it felt 5.10c for sure. Agreed, a strong second is advised, otherwise a fall would result in one hell of a swing. In my opinion, it is just as difficult for the leader as it is for the second. I followed the second pitch, and, must say, was thoroughly worked. I thought leading the first pitch was scary and committing, this climb was good for the head.

We rappelled using 2 sixty meter ropes. Sep 27, 2008
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
I finally led the first two pitches (as a single pitch) of Rosy today, and got them clean. I had been wanting to come back and lead these pitches since having followed both (as a single pitch) clean in June, 2006. The lead felt harder than the follow even though I have climbed, and improved, a good bit since 6/6. The initial moves before you clip the first bolt are 5.10a I've concluded since, when I followed them I could judge them objectively, and they felt like 5.10a. When I led them today they felt like 5.10d because, no matter what anyone says here, if you blow the first clip you are f*cked (and so is your belayer, BTW, unless you have built a bomb-proof anchor), and $hit feels harder when the consequences are dire if you blow it.

You can totally shake out and decompress at the first anchor (without dogging on the anchor, of course) before taking on the second pitch, which felt easier to me this time (compared to the first pitch it was a cinch).

Anyway, re: grading this route, the real, objective, crux is after the second bolt, on that long stem to the horizontal finger seam. If you factor sustained difficulty into your grading then this route is harder than 5.10a. This lead was bloody hard. This is all just my opinion--others may have a completely different experience. Sep 13, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Led this route yesterday with doubles, and it worked great. One rope for the traverse and the other rope for the vertical crack. No drag at all. C3s work well to protect the latter part of the traverse.

Rosy is a great climb with fun exposure! Link it up! Aug 5, 2007
patrick kadel
  5.10b PG13
patrick kadel  
  5.10b PG13
Traverses scare me, Rosy was no exception.

The Vertigo rap anchors around the tree have been removed. I sat there confused, but after a few minutes, I turned around and saw the new rappel bolts. Oct 1, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Jack,
As for the grade, it sounds like this route must be your style. I've free soloed Tagger and I think this route is harder and I wouldn't try it. There's no good rest to hang out and recover.

However, I happen to agree with your apparent opinion that the bolts don't belong. The route has already been brought down a few standards by them. I don't sport climb much either...

Unless (R) stands for "RETROBOLTED" we can safely remove that designation from this climb. Jul 4, 2006
It sounds like a bunch of whining. This route is a classic 10a. And it's an EASY 5.10!!

It isn't even close to the pump or technical level as Tagger, Outer Space or Super Slab. Protection is always good, especially since the placement of the bolts and a stick clip is not needed. Just suck it up for a couple of feet and clip the bolt. You guys have been sport climbing WAYYYYYYY too much. Don't bring the climbing down to your standards just get better. Jul 3, 2006
A little more historical perspective--I was along on the FFA and have photos of Jim leading the traverse which I'll try to post soon. Unfortunately I ran out of film and don't have any shots of the upper pitches. It was definitely more exciting without the bolts! May 14, 2006
Bill Wright
  5.10c
Bill Wright  
  5.10c
I think this pitch is 10c - my nemesis grade at Eldo. Definitely 10c if you combine the first and second pitches, which I recommend for the challenge and the great belay at the top of the second pitch. I think this pitch is considerably harder than other 10c Eldo pitches like Outer Space and Tagger. I also think it's harder than the last pitch of Superslab (10d). Jan 27, 2006
Drashta
  5.10a
Drashta  
  5.10a
Incredible climb: cool moves, impeccable stone and the exposure rocks! I know this is probably really obvious, but it seemed important to me to build some sort of anchor on the ramp below the start of the first pitch. I found a nice v thread and there is also a good place to thread a stopper. If the leader blows the clip and falls, (s)he's going for the big ride and taking the belayer with them. Just something to keep in mind. Dec 27, 2005
No need for a stick to clip the first bolt. Look 5' to the left of the start and you'll see a bomber slot for a big stopper (#8 rock or so). Sep 28, 2005
Kirill Kireyev
Boulder, CO
Kirill Kireyev   Boulder, CO
There should be a wooden stick in the cave at the beginning of pitch 1. You can use it to stick-clip the first bolt - the beginning moves are a lot trickier than it seems.

Oh and make sure you're very clear on how you're going to descend. Sep 26, 2005
Adrian Hill
  5.10a
Adrian Hill  
  5.10a
I agree with Guy's comment about the #2 (yellow) Camalot on p2. Rossiter's guide says take gear to a #2 Friend, which is much too small for that placement.I don't think the route warrants an "s" with the current two bolts on p1. I placed three Aliens (black, blue, green) and a great stopper on the traverse. I'm 5'8" and I could stretch to clip the first bolt before leaving the large foothold.We rapped from the tree up and left of the finish to the belay at the end of p1. Then another rap (2 60m ropes required) back to the ground. Aug 11, 2005
Climbed this route again the other day, and finished with Alice In Bucketland - a full day and highly recommended! As I had remembered, the opening sequence on the first pitch, getting to and past the first bolt, is technically the most challenging. But you can't get anxious as you get closer to the wall, you have to look for and find all the holds... you can't miss anything on this pitch or you'll pay for it. Jun 7, 2005
I was scrambling around behind the big block below the first pitch of this route, and found a soiled pair of boxers and a cut sling. Being a good eldo citizen, I had the 'privilege' of packing this detritus out. Although messing one's shorts at the base of Rosy is a perfectly natural reaction, please be considerate of others and this amazing place... Apr 4, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I usually struggle on the last moves up the crack on P2. But last time I did it, I saw from above that there were good holds on the face to the right of the top of the crack. My second, Luke, followed that way quite easily, bypassing the last moves up the crack. So next time that's how I intend to do it. Aug 2, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10c PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10c PG13
I had more problems on the 2nd pitch than the first. I think it is really helpful to be tall for the moves before the first bolt and after the second. A #2 Camalot is useful on the 2nd pitch, right before the tricky lieback section at the top. A .3 Camalot or equivalent protects the slopey top out to the belay ledge. Aug 2, 2004
ac
ac  
Ernie and Larry, thanks for the additional historical perspective. By the time Rocky Heights was published, Rosy's reputation was far tamer than that. I don't know if there were different pins by that time, but I know that Rosy was often one of the first multi-pitch 5.10's that climbers would go after while progressing through the number grades (it was my 2nd 5.10). I guess climbers had more blind faith in those pins back then. Circa 1980, Rosy was certainly not a climb where you felt that a no-falls ascent was mandatory -- on any given weekend (given the sandbag rating in Rocky Heights) you would see climbers hanging on those pins. And as Larry mentioned, there was a pin you could clip after just stepping off the ramp -- similar to the first bolt now. I never heard of anyone getting hurt because of pins popping. So my argument was that the character of the route back then was not that much different than with the bolts now. But based on Ernie account of Erickson's FFA, the rigid ACE philosophy dictates the bolts *and* pins should have never been placed. If so, this route would be relegated to hardman obscurity. Jun 7, 2004
In the early-middle 70s there were 3 fixed pieces on the traverse: (1) a doubtful blade that could be clipped just after you made the first moves off the ramp; (2) a terrible ring-angle, driven parallel to the rock surface along the long diagonal (down-to-right) crack, only its tip biting, with a ratty rope sling attached; and (3) a newer angle in a horizontal crack in the tiny corner that marks the end of the crux. You clipped (3) with a sigh of relief, because it was the first one that looked like it might hold a fall. (1) and (2) were the only protection for the exciting part of the pitch, though. A cover photo in Climbing (May-June 1975) shows the exact locations of this gear.So, logistically Rosy was like a sport route, in being mainly a clip-up (just a few nuts needed higher up); but the psychology was different. Jun 5, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
When Erickson freed this in '70, he told me that he put a stopper/runner just above the now 1st pin and motored down and right into easier ground totally unprotected. He also showed me the rope burn scars on his shoulder, bicep, and forearm from a fall Steve Wood took on that last move in that upper corner of P2, as JE was hip belaying from that micro ledge... Jun 4, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
The climb is a great climb and is certainly one of the hardest 10a's around. From my point of view it is the '4-alarm fire of sandbags.' The climbing is unique, but I must admit, the character of this route has CERTAINLY been changed by the bolts. It is now more of a standard route, and less of something to aspire to. It is a good example of bad retro-bolting. May 23, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
5.10c
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
5.10c
Charles, with all due respect, you're a psycho. I never really paid much attention to the comments here until I actually climbed it. Leaders, protect your second PLEASE. The bolts ain't enough... I was WAY freaked out to unclip the second bolt, but that's just because I'm a big pus after falling two weeks ago. Pump factor nine if you link P2 and 3 together. Also, if you have an extraordinarily long 60m rope, make SURE you find the center and rap the three pitches down to P1 slings. From here you can just BARELY make it to the cold-shut midway up the 5.0 ramp approach. You pass it on the way up attached to a piton. Your party would do well to simul-rap here because it stretches the rope a bit more, but make sure there are knots at the ends! Maybe a bit of swinging is necessary, but its BARELY possible. Puts you right at the gear you leave at the bottom of the ramp as well... VERY hard for a 5.10a and that's coming from two hard 10 leaders. It'll be awhile before I come back to this one. I'm heading off to Yellow...Cheers!~Wm May 21, 2004
[Did this route again today.. What a great route. However the webbing and rap anchor and the start of the first pitch have been removed. No more rapping if one [chickens] on the first moves. Also the webbing on the belay anchor at the end of the first pitch looks like someone has cut through most of it with a knife. I would not trust a belay on it or rappel. Sabitoge I tell you. If you find yourself in this situation clip in to the fixed stoppers. Also bring 1 or 2 extra metolius 0 TCUs. You can use them toback up the fixed anchors. If anyone knows why the webbing was removed for the start of this climb please let us know. Also, I heard rumors of bolts going in at the fixed anchor belay. Is there any truth in that?] May 10, 2004
There is a no hands rest right after the first bolt. A sideways kneebar with the right leg, left foot inside edged on good foot-hold, let go and contemplate the business. If this route were at Shelf it would be 11b. Feb 4, 2004
TBD
  5.10a
TBD  
  5.10a
You can get some good ballnutz after the 2 bolts. A #4 is particularly helpful. A green alien is too big for this section. The crux is definitely the head games while you pump out fiddling with gear after the bolts, staring back at a big swing. I doubt it's technically harder than 10- if you find the good foothold down low before the stem after the second bolt. Nov 10, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Yes, you were very lucky AC...count your blessings... I'm not saying every person who falls there is going to the hospital... but it looked dangerous enough that my partner & I took note. And it wouldn't be the distance you fell either (about 6') if you did peel reaching for the first clip, but the surface and angle of the ramp you'd hit (grooved, irregular, down sloping, and hard), that could potentially injure an ankle/hip/elbo. Accidents can happen anywhere...all I'm saying is this first clip has POTENTIAL for a bad day at Eldo...Just be warned before wandering all the way up there, if you aren't quite sure of your (10a) leading ability...There is a small wire placement in the lower left corner at the start to prevent tumbling down the ramp too far in the event of a fall, but it won't keep you from decking...relax, have fun, and be careful up there. Aug 1, 2003
On my lead of it, I did fall from my stance before clipping the first bolt due to my hand buttering off that incredibly slick, super chalked up and kind of calcified-smooth hold you are referring to. I crashed onto the ramp feet first, but because the ramp slopes so much I immediately tumbled onto my side, which I think may have saved me from an ankle/foot injury. Banged me up a little, but I got right back on and finished without incident. I may have just gotten lucky, but I didn't think the fall was that hard. Aug 1, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Jumped on this today for the first time...following each pitch. The start is nothing like I envisioned from reading the beta...you can't just reach up and clip the 1st bolt from the ledge if you are tall (I'm 5'11") before you make the (10a) move... you have to launch up to a near vertical stance, using a slopey left hand crimper and a high angling right hand crimper, then release the right hand, shift weight right and reach high for the clip, while relying on the tenuous left hand and a decent left foot placement to hold you in place. Very balancey... In other words, you have to do the (10a) move, unprotected, to reach the first clip. The consequence of a lead fall here, would not be pretty (probably a rescue, trip to the hospital, and broken bones). Following the start is no problem...

Following the first half of P1 isn't too bad either, but once you unclip that second bolt, it gets dicey. As George mentioned above, you can't get off your arms, their pumped, but there's no feet there, so you must step down to a nubbin, and work over and reach for a good corner horizontal seam. Make sure you leader protects the corner well. I felt the most exposure here...Very sequencey...got spanked...

P2 & P3 are exciting, classic pitches, of hard, near vertical (9) climbing that will challenge you every inch of the way. Doesn't get much better than this in Eldo... Jul 31, 2003
Just did this climb yesterday after doing the first three pitches of Ruper. Would have to say it was one of the best days I've had in Eldo! The crux on Rosy is short and well protected with two bolts at the start--or, maybe it is pulling the ropes after rapping off. Great climb and I would agree that the rating is about right. FYI: someone may want to throw up some rings or chains at the end of P1--the slings are starting to fray all over... Jul 8, 2003
I just did this route for the first time in 25 years, and I found myself wondering, "Why didn't I get back to this sooner?" It is a beautiful climb. The crux for the leader, though, is not the moves themselves, but hanging out to place gear to protect your second. If your limit is 10-, you will find this a worthy challenge--harder than most other climbs for the same grade. Best to do pitches 1 and 2 in one lead, so that you will not hit your belay partner if you fall off pitch 2. Use lots of long slings. And have fun! It doesn't get any better than this. Jun 28, 2003
Definitely a great climb. Kind of intimidating with all the exposure but go for it! A purple (#0) TCU fits the horizontal finger crack after the crux perfectly and takes a little fear out of the last couple moves to the anchor. Also, might help to bring a long sling or two to back up the existing anchor after pitch one. Some of those slings are starting to look pretty ratty. You can descend down The Naked Edge with one rope if you use the first pitch anchors on T2, but watch for parties below. Send it! Jul 30, 2002
I led this route recently and agree with those who feel that it is pretty difficult for 10.a, even in Eldo. I combined the 1st two pitches on double ropes clipping the second rope only to gear on pitch 2. This provided more than adequate protection for the second. This is one of the best pitches I've ever done in Eldo but caution anyone who is at their limit on 10. May 21, 2002
My friend is 5'9" and had no problem clipping the first bolt without committing to the wall, just stretch. 10a is about right. It may be crimpy, but all the crimps are big and positive, and your feet are huge if you stem correctly. Apr 27, 2002
If pitches 1 & 2 are combined and led on double ropes with one rope being clipped only to pro on 2nd pitch, how is the protection for the second? Big swing Jan 25, 2002
Rosy's is 5.10. Maybe easy 10 if you're tall, or hard 10 if your short, but it's still 5.10. I think rather than get hung up in the subgrades (a,b,c,d) climbers should concerns themselves more with the gear, because that is where the real danger lies on this route. Although the bolts protect the leader on P1, he must place gear after the crux to protect the second (I found a #7 WC nut worked well, or small TCU) from a nasty sideways fall. The 5.9 pitches are a bit run out as well, and so I wouldn't recommend this route to anyone who doesn't feel solid onsighting 5.10 (-or+). Aug 1, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
I did this climb this morning and led P1 & P3. I am a short dude (5'7") and am primarily a crack climber. I don't know that I could give P1 a 10c, (no offense to those giving it that rating). Let's call it 10- (a/b). I would say that for a short pitch, however, you get your money's worth. This was a really nice and unique route. Additionally, the "s" rating is questionable - just pay attention to what you're doing and stay relaxed when you go to clip the first bolt. Jun 10, 2001
I did this route with George on 3/4 and it is not 10a. Not even for Eldo. I talked with Jim Erickson (first person to free this route) and he thinks it is 10c (though he rated it 5.9+ back then). Id say 10c/d if you combine the first two pitches (recommended because of the nice belay atop pitch 2, but PUMPY!) It seems harder than Tagger (10c), Superslab (10d), and Disappearing Act (11a). Maybe after getting it wired, it would seem easier, but thats tough to do since you have to climb all three pitches to try the first pitch again. Great route, though! Technical, devious, and very continuous. Jan 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though! Jan 1, 2001
I've done this route probably 25 times, and it is my favorite 5.10- in Boulder. Im 6' tall and it feels like 5.10a to me. I first climbed Rosy in 1980 when there were no bolts--just some rusty old pins with ratty slings all over the place. The bolts have cleaned it up and made it much more enjoyable and safer. I think the very first move is as hard as any other move on the route, including the long step down in the middle of the traverse. I've always linked the first and second pitches in one. Rosy is definitely an Eldorado classic, and is, in my opinion, one of the best 5.10 routes anywhere--right up there with Figures and Solid Gold in Joshua Tree. Jan 1, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
here is an attempt to describe how to get to the first pitch: from the top of the lower Ramp, just before you get to Ruper et al, head right over some blocks to a short easy dihedral/pillar. Go up that (easy 5th), then down the other side to a sloping ramp that leads down to the start of the route (which is indeed a fantastic route!). Jan 1, 2001
Young Doug - Ahhh Mr Escalar was the first to mention the step down..there is a little nubbin halfway across just at the lip you can stand on if you can find it! it eliminates the need for a long stem! Sorry...didn mean to spew beta, but if you read this you are looking for it! Jan 1, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I did this route yesterday (3/4/01) for the second time. I have always found this route difficult for the 10a rating. The first pitch is very crimpy and if your finger strength goes you are history. It is also very sequency and there is no place to get off your arms. One tip - if you are 6 ft or over, you can clip the first bolt before you commit to the wall. It is just barely possible. Jan 1, 2001