Avg: 3.8 from 420 votes
Trad, 3 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor, Jack Turner, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Steve Wood, Ed Wright, 1970.|
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|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Carl Schaefer: a less-exposed alternative to the Lower Ramp is what Levin calls West Face of Lower Ramp, which starts below Suparete at a large right-facing dihedral and continues up and right (blocky 5.0) to the top of the Lower Ramp.
The first pitch is a 50' horizontal traverse above a roof. The exposure consists of 150 feet of air straight to the ground, very exposed. The first half of the traverse is the crux, but the second half will still keep you pumped. Make the weaker climber in the party lead it as it is scarier to second it. The belay is semi-hanging off some fixed webbing (or wires) that can be backed up with nuts a little higher. If you haven't climbed in Eldo much, you might find the pitch a bit burly for the grade.
The second pitch is 60' long and goes up a steep and beautiful 9+ finger crack to a ledge with two bolts. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up.
The third pitch is .9- and about 110'. Start with delicate moves, go up to a bolt, then make a big stem to the right. Easier ground continues up the upper ramp, where you can belay off a large tree with [no] fixed gear.
Descent: with one rope, you can rap off Vertigo (up the ramp from the finish) or the Naked Edge (down the same ramp, including a 5.4 move). With 2 ropes, you can rappel the route and end up halfway down the approach ramp. You may have to leave gear on top to get down to the P1 anchor.