Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Layton Kor, Jack Turner, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Steve Wood, Ed Wright, 1970.
Page Views: 37,696 total · 166/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is my favorite route in Eldo. It is not too long but is one of the most elegant lines possible. It begins with a long scramble up a ramp 5.0 (left of the Roof Routes), to some 5.2 soloing. It is hard to describe exactly how to get to the base of it, consult a guidebook.

Per Carl Schaefer: a less-exposed alternative to the Lower Ramp is what Levin calls West Face of Lower Ramp, which starts below Suparete at a large right-facing dihedral and continues up and right (blocky 5.0) to the top of the Lower Ramp.

The first pitch is a 50' horizontal traverse above a roof. The exposure consists of 150 feet of air straight to the ground, very exposed. The first half of the traverse is the crux, but the second half will still keep you pumped. Make the weaker climber in the party lead it as it is scarier to second it. The belay is semi-hanging off some fixed webbing (or wires) that can be backed up with nuts a little higher. If you haven't climbed in Eldo much, you might find the pitch a bit burly for the grade.

The second pitch is 60' long and goes up a steep and beautiful 9+ finger crack to a ledge with two bolts. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up.

The third pitch is .9- and about 110'. Start with delicate moves, go up to a bolt, then make a big stem to the right. Easier ground continues up the upper ramp, where you can belay off a large tree with [no] fixed gear.

Descent: with one rope, you can rap off Vertigo (up the ramp from the finish) or the Naked Edge (down the same ramp, including a 5.4 move). With 2 ropes, you can rappel the route and end up halfway down the approach ramp. You may have to leave gear on top to get down to the P1 anchor.

Protection

Three really short pitches. The first pitch has two bolts on it protecting the crux move, and the third pitch has a bolt at the crux You don't need much gear, bring a few TCUs, some stoppers and a couple cams around a #1 Camalot. A #3 Camalot is nice to have near the top of P2, but not necessary.

Photos