Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Trad, 2 pitches
|FA:||Michael Gilbert, [Roger Schimmel, & Roger Briggs]|
|Page Views:||3,245 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Apr 28, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1: (5.9+ X) This is the first pitch of Saint Augustine, which is located between The Italian Arete and upper Grand Giraffe, off of the Upper Ramp. Loose! Set up a belay on the pedestal.
P2: (5.11d R+) This is the first half of St Augustine's second pitch, but we exit over the obvious roof just before SA's short crux out right. This is a traversing pitch up and right through lichenous huecos and at first, no pro. Aim for the roof depositing as much pro as you can. Protection is possible over the roof but with some effort...
The crux is turning the roof to a semi-rest and then making two or three insecure moves up and left on a series of questionable? flakes. [This is the left variation] Keep in mind you are relying on the lone piece of pro above the roof that isn't total junk but its not exactly bomber either...Its not over yet! After a couple 5.10 moves on dubious flakes you finally have another chance for protection, in a hollow sounding flake. Five-Nine climbing toward a fixed nut ends the scare factor. Finish the pitch on easier rock to the ledge. A 190' pitch!