Redgarden Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.931, -105.284 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Unless you are truly only seeking the true high-end of climbing difficulty, there is probably ample quantities for you here at this cliff alone. In fact, some people have moved here simply because Eldorado Canyon and Redgarden Wall are here. Probably, every American climber who is anyone special has touched this stone. There is truly something special about this place. The native Americans knew this. This was recognized by the earliest modern visitors; however, it was probably not until the 1950s that climbers became bold enough to venture onto its steeper faces.
The climbing here is characterized by excellent sandstone with interspersed short areas of lower quality rock. The dominant style of climbing is traditional, face climbing, sprinkled occasional cracks, dihedrals, and roofs with various era fixed protection. Strong protection skills, route-finding skills, and verve are essential on this crag. A solid, mental control is often required for success and good health here. Repeated, uncontrolled falls commonly used at modern sport climbing areas are not advisable in many places.
For the purposes of this organization, the division of the crag is arbitrary but involves looking at the cliff in terms of obvious distinct features without splitting it into too many sections (goal of 40ish routes or less per section). This approach can best be appreciated by stepping back and looking at the crag with fresh eyes and looking for obvious divisions. Please understand that no one system will be perfect nor necessarily one better than others. However, the lines used here to split the crag are the 1) the great dihedral right of the Naked Edge (Redguard & right - S Buttress); 2) the roof like area at the bottom of Redgarden Wall and the routes that go through it (Roof Routes); 3) the Lower Ramp and routes below it (Below Lower Ramp); 4) the obvious saddle between Tower One & Tower Two and the well-known route that splits it (Ruper); 5) the obvious large dihedral that splits Lumpe Tower and Tower One (Dirty Deed and the best continuation below it - West Chimney). Obviously, there are going to be challenging lines at the edges of these arbitrary boundaries and those that cross through multiple sections such as Rosy Toit, Roving for Love, Ruper to Grand Giraffe etc.
The likes of Bird, D. Johnson, Shepard, Kor, Dalke, Ament, Culp, Erickson, Wunsch, Ferguson, Bragg, Coyne, Breashears, Webster, Briggs, Hill, Griffith, Hersey, and so many more have wandered here.... The complete list is a virtual who's who in Colorado climbing have left their marks here with first ascents, first free ascents, first solo ascents, repeats, etc..
There are just so many terrific lines here. Obviously, this list will unintentionally miss some favorites and is inevitably incomplete. Some that resonate between climbers include: Swanson Arete, 5.5; Icarus, 5.6 s; Rewritten, 5.7; The Bulge, 5.7 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; Redguard, 5.8+ s; Touch 'n Go, 5.9; Green Slab Direct, 5.9; The Green Spur, 5.9; Anthill Direct, 5.9 s; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Blackwalk, 5.10b s; The Serpent, 5.10b s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Temporary Like Achilles, 5.10d s; T2, 5.10d s; Le Toit, 5.10d s; Disappearing Act, 5.11a; Guenese, 5.11a; the verve-requiring route, The Diving Board, 5.11a; the historic Kloeberdanz, 5.11a s; Vertigo, 5.11b; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; Pansee Sauvage, 5.11b s; Evangeline, 5.11b/c A1; C'est La Vie, 5.9 P1 or 5.11c; Back in Black to Black Top, 5.11c s; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; Le Boomerang, 5.11d; The Contest, 5.11d; Silver Raven, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Fire and Ice, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom, 5.12a s; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s; Downpressor Man, 5.12b; Scary Canary, 5.12b s; Wasabe, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho, 5.12d; Genesis, 5.11a P1 or 5.12d s; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a Kloeberdeath, 5.13b; Desdichado, 5.13c; probably Eldo's hardest, The Undertaker, 5.13d. It would be wise to plan your descent before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious.
Some lines here can be rappeled. Others may funnel rappelers down lines like the rappel below The Naked Edge first pitch. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 2 methods. 1) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 2) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels. 3) You can go to rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You can ascend to the top and far left end of Redgarden Wall and down scramble the gully at the top. Note, you may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes.
So, come here, respect the rock & your fellow climber, soak in the history, climb to your heart's content, fill your spirit, and enjoy the gift of freedom. Redgarden Wall is part of what makes Colorado wonderful.
Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden Wall
Days w Precip