Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Drew Spaulding, Aug.'13|
|Page Views:||2,665 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Spaulding on Dec 30, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Rosy II was recently up for vote and on review with the FHRC for a request to place 3 protection bolts. These 3 bolts have now been placed to make it a well-protected, but still bold, new, 2-pitch route. All 3 bolts were added to the 2nd pitch to make it a long and wild 135'-5.11a/b.
PITCH 1-(5.8-PG13) The 1st pitch of Rosy II is a super featured, plaque of patina, incut edges, huecos, and solid cracks. While most of the 1st pitch is only 5.6-5.7, it has the feel of being slightly runout because of its face climbing nature.... Solid, and sporadic placements appear to protect this pitch sufficiently, and it is a really fun start to this 2-pitch climb! I've led this pitch a few times and feel the gear is solid and sufficiently protects this 80' section. After the diagonal hand crack, step up right on the pocketed face and place a #4 CAMALOT in a hueco to protect the moderate stretch up to the slanting belay ledge.
PITCH 2- Protect the start of the 2nd pitch with a few pocket placements before gaining the challenging diagonal pod-like dike traverse. Place a CRUCIAL #4 CAMALOT in the constrictive pod before stepping up to clip the 1st bolt at the lower roof. Powerful and devious moves pull up onto positive jugs to surmount the large roof!(5.11a/b) Mantle up onto the "HEART" shaped horn and clip the 2nd bolt. Step left to follow edges past the bolt and up into the right-facing crack system above(5.10b). The 3rd bolt is placed over the lip of the upper roof to protect it's powerful and devious moves.(5.11a) Climb the right edge of the diamond shaped headwall to follow good rock and solid placements to the top! This is a well protected 135' pitch at 5.11b-ish.
"In August '13, with the encouragement of ACE's Joe Crotty, I led(headpointed) this 2nd pitch (135') with 1 pre-placed nut above the long runout, with an extra long sling (8') to mimic where the 2nd bolt would be placed. Natural cracks, pods, seams, and random slots appear the rest of the way to provide a spicey, but well-protected, exciting 2nd pitch. I placed 17 placements in 135'..."
This route starts just down the upper ramp from the "Italian Arete" and further down below Saint Augustine.... Also, about 20' up the ramp from the start to the upper Grand Giraffe.