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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,158 total, 31/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

First, you can climb the first pitch of Rewritten (5.7), The Great Zot (5.8+), or West Chimney (5.6).

Climb up and right for an easy traverse pitch to the large ledge and belay at tree or right under crack systems.

Start as for Icarus but at the double dihedral intersection, go left up the large corner system. Climb this easily and when it ends a fun hand and finger crack cruised up the face for 30 more feet to a large tree on the start of a messy ledge/ramp system. This is a 200+ foot pitch so some easy simul-climbing will need to be done.

The next pitch goes straight up cracks to the summit, or you can do what we did which is go right and follow the easy ledge/ramp to where it intersects the sharp arete finish to The Yellow Spur and Icarus. Head straight up this exposed arete with some runout to the top.

Descend by straddling the sharp arete that leads down to the Dirty Deed saddle, then downclimb the east slab decent or rappel. Fun cruiser climb that we did for a summit sunset. Had to hurry down the east slabs to beat the dark.

Protection

Light rack.

Photos

Derek W  
Is this route "Dirty Deed" as shown in Levin's book? Where is Dirty Deed as described on MP located in relation? Mar 9, 2011
Sarge
 
Sarge  
 
This is a easy route, but fun. Must do the last pitch. The finger, slash hands is awesome. From the base of this wall, you can easily do this route in 3 long pitches, although--it does help if you have a double rope system. Have fun! Apr 29, 2007
slevin  
Per the 1961 Dornan guide (Eldorado's first guide):
"The Dirty Deed, Grade 5, easy.
This route starts in the chimney 150 ft. north of the Yellow Spur. Climb up the crack on the right one lead to a large ledge. Traverse right until it is possible to diagonal up a face south of a gully. The final section of this face is easiest by the south ridge. The route finishes up the Yellow Spur summit."

High Over Boulder, First Edition 1967:
"The Dirty Deed. I, 5.5. First ascent in 1959 by Charles Alexander and Dean Moore. This route begins in the prominent chimney about 100 feet north of the start of the Yellow Spur. The first lead goes 150 feet up the chimney to a belay ledge near a tree. Scramble right (south) along a ledge. Reach the base of another chimney-crack system. Instead of going up the chimney-crack system, work out onto the high angle slab on the right. Two long leads will take the party to the top of Tower 1."

The 1970 second edition of High Over Boulder amended the description to include this:
"As an alternative one may avoid these last two leads by staying in the crack (gully) system to left."

Jim Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights guide describes the route as going up the gully to the notch left of the T1 summit, but added "There are several more difficult (5.5 to 5.8) choices on the smooth face near the summit that may be taken as desired." Feb 19, 2007
Richard Rossiter did not do the first ascent of this route! This was a common route and a variation to the Dirty Deed. Just read Pat Ament's High Over Boulder or Jim Erickson's guidebook, and you will find out that this route was well established before 1981!! I soloed this on a regular basis in the mid 1970s, and I know that I am not the first person to do so.... May 19, 2005