Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,559 total · 34/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

First, you can climb the first pitch of Rewritten (5.7), The Great Zot (5.8+), or West Chimney (5.6).

Climb up and right for an easy traverse pitch to the large ledge and belay at tree or right under crack systems.

Start as for Icarus but at the double dihedral intersection, go left up the large corner system. Climb this easily and when it ends a fun hand and finger crack cruised up the face for 30 more feet to a large tree on the start of a messy ledge/ramp system. This is a 200+ foot pitch so some easy simul-climbing will need to be done.

The next pitch goes straight up cracks to the summit, or you can do what we did which is go right and follow the easy ledge/ramp to where it intersects the sharp arete finish to The Yellow Spur and Icarus. Head straight up this exposed arete with some runout to the top.

Descend by straddling the sharp arete that leads down to the Dirty Deed saddle, then downclimb the east slab decent or rappel. Fun cruiser climb that we did for a summit sunset. Had to hurry down the east slabs to beat the dark.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack.