Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | George Hurley, Bob Culp, John Link, 1967 |
Page Views: | 146,174 total · 592/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.
P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.
P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge arcing left. Look for a large eyebolt.
P3. Continue up the left-facing dihedral to a belay stance on the right (6).
P4. This is the crux and most exciting pitch. From the belay, traverse the hand crack left, pull around the arete, and continue up the steep and exposed hand crack. Belay on a ledge to the left of where previously existed a large, detached block or the right. Caution: this block fell down; this 6 foot high piece of rock used to rock back and forth if you pulled on it!
P5. Follow the crack to the R (5) or straight (8) up Rebuffat's Arete. The arete is recommended as it more spectacular. Belay at a tree in the large V on the left.
P6. Find a clean, 5.5 crack to the summit. This is a great short pitch also with a nice view and bomber gear.
Descent: downclimb a notch to the North back to the West side of Redgarden Wall. The notch is beyond several towers to the NW. If it doesn't look like easy 4th Class, keep going.
P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.
P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge arcing left. Look for a large eyebolt.
P3. Continue up the left-facing dihedral to a belay stance on the right (6).
P4. This is the crux and most exciting pitch. From the belay, traverse the hand crack left, pull around the arete, and continue up the steep and exposed hand crack. Belay on a ledge to the left of where previously existed a large, detached block or the right. Caution: this block fell down; this 6 foot high piece of rock used to rock back and forth if you pulled on it!
P5. Follow the crack to the R (5) or straight (8) up Rebuffat's Arete. The arete is recommended as it more spectacular. Belay at a tree in the large V on the left.
P6. Find a clean, 5.5 crack to the summit. This is a great short pitch also with a nice view and bomber gear.
Descent: downclimb a notch to the North back to the West side of Redgarden Wall. The notch is beyond several towers to the NW. If it doesn't look like easy 4th Class, keep going.
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