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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grand Course, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Sleeves T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sayat-Nova S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time) S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | George Hurley, Bob Culp, John Link, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 146,174 total · 592/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.
P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.
P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge arcing left. Look for a large eyebolt.
P3. Continue up the left-facing dihedral to a belay stance on the right (6).
P4. This is the crux and most exciting pitch. From the belay, traverse the hand crack left, pull around the arete, and continue up the steep and exposed hand crack. Belay on a ledge to the left of where previously existed a large, detached block or the right. Caution: this block fell down; this 6 foot high piece of rock used to rock back and forth if you pulled on it!
P5. Follow the crack to the R (5) or straight (8) up Rebuffat's Arete. The arete is recommended as it more spectacular. Belay at a tree in the large V on the left.
P6. Find a clean, 5.5 crack to the summit. This is a great short pitch also with a nice view and bomber gear.
Descent: downclimb a notch to the North back to the West side of Redgarden Wall. The notch is beyond several towers to the NW. If it doesn't look like easy 4th Class, keep going.
P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.
P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge arcing left. Look for a large eyebolt.
P3. Continue up the left-facing dihedral to a belay stance on the right (6).
P4. This is the crux and most exciting pitch. From the belay, traverse the hand crack left, pull around the arete, and continue up the steep and exposed hand crack. Belay on a ledge to the left of where previously existed a large, detached block or the right. Caution: this block fell down; this 6 foot high piece of rock used to rock back and forth if you pulled on it!
P5. Follow the crack to the R (5) or straight (8) up Rebuffat's Arete. The arete is recommended as it more spectacular. Belay at a tree in the large V on the left.
P6. Find a clean, 5.5 crack to the summit. This is a great short pitch also with a nice view and bomber gear.
Descent: downclimb a notch to the North back to the West side of Redgarden Wall. The notch is beyond several towers to the NW. If it doesn't look like easy 4th Class, keep going.
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