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> Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
The Grand Course
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 104 votes
Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R | |
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | FFA - Jim Erickson and John Behrens |
Page Views: | 6,882 total, 35/month |
Shared By: | Ben F on Jul 13, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
First, let me state that I am amazed how many routes in the Eldo data base have 3 stars. Don't let this 2 star rating dissuade you - I'm keeping things in perspective. This route is as good as most of the "3 star" routes in the vicinity.P1. For the first pitch (10-), you need to be adept at crack climbing. It has a section of wide hands and fists. Also, this short pitch is rather polished, so watch your foot placements carefully. There are a couple of choices for establishing a belay at the end of the first pitch. Take the one that suits you best. We opted to stay low at the first large ledge to avoid the fumes of bird excrement.
P2. Move up into what can best be described as a twin crack system. Take this upward and move right into a right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is mostly thin, but as I mentioned earlier, a #3.5 Friend (or 2) may have worked. I also managed a #1 Camalot, but a #2.5 Friend may have worked a little better. I got a wobbly, but decent nut at a weird block in the crack near the crux. Anyway, you will know when you get to the business. It looked like persons taller than myself may have moved slightly right at the crux. I pretty much had to go straight-up.
My best advice for someone considering this climb is to 1) be able to crack climb; 2) have good footwork, including stemming; and 3) be comfortable doing cruxes a little above your gear.
There is a 5.9 variation, where you stay left/straight above the first pitch. I only glanced at it and it looked good and may protect better than the 11- pitch. A couple parties that did it earlier and did the climb in one pitch.
Erickson's book rated P1 5.9 and P2 10-!
Protection
Bring a standard rack at least up to a #4 Friend. A #4 Camalot was placed on the first pitch by my partner. I possibly could have used a #3.5 Friend on the mid/upper part of the 2nd pitch. At the top of the crux pitch, work up and left to a belay tree from which you will need 2 ropes to rappel to the ground. Also, save a 0 TCU/blue Alien for the crux pitch.Photos
26 Comments
Thanks for the comment
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Brighton, CO
Colorado
Good climb, I liked the wideish crack at the start. Fun! Mar 27, 2016
Black Hawk, CO
Boulder, CO
Loveland, Co
Golden, Co
As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb.
Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10.
Bird shit is medium once you hit the twin cracks. I was able to make it non-issue.
Afterwards, swing over and give Silver Raven a burn. Jun 17, 2014
In its current state, 4 stars. May 21, 2013
Arvada, CO
I think I saw a couple feathers and part of the skeleton of the dead bird in the crack mentioned in previous comments. May 14, 2011
Boulder, CO
Don't know if they are new, but there is a nice bolt anchor atop the 11 variation finish. Double rope rap with 60s makes it to the ground with plenty to spare. A single 70 barley makes it back to the ground.
Well worth doing!!!
CL Feb 24, 2008
Golden, Co
Boulder
Fort Collins, CO
I wrapped the ropes around my leg, tied the tails to my harness, and began prussking with my one prussik. Stand up, "rappel" backwards, hang on belay device. Repeat. Re-wrap the ropes around the leg every 4 iterations. Check out the amazing Paris Girl while recovering between upward lurches. Eventually I was able to swing left to the pillar at the top of P1 of Disappearing Act and go off rappel. Luke moved to the left tree and we rapped in two rappels (although one 60m should make it from there to the pillar on Disappearing Act). Sep 5, 2006
Arvada
Boulder, CO
Louisville, Colorado
Denver, CO
Sacramento, CA
Benfield, Kolorado
Pinewood Springs
Benfield, Kolorado