Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Joe O'Laughlin, Steve Turner, 1968
Page Views: 9,235 total · 134/month
Shared By: Joshinator on Apr 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


311 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is most popularly done as a variation to the fifth pitch of Rewritten. From the dead tree belay of Rewritten, avoid the chossy gully and head straight out right on to the edge of the arete. There is more protection than would first appear. Have fun peeking over the edge and head right up to the top. Then carefully downclimb 5-10 feet to the notch. It is 80'.

It can also be done from lower on Rewritten, right after the hand traverse and finger crack on pitch 4. Instead of moving left, head straight up the arete. It is 190', PG-13.

It can also be accessed from Tower Corner Exit. Reach the arete by moving left up a ramp system, then follow to the top as above. It is 130'.

Protection

Standard Eldorado rack.
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s. Apr 8, 2014
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.7
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.7
Simply brilliant pitch. Oct 4, 2014
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page. Aug 11, 2015
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Had a 0.4 walk from rope drag about halfway up the arete, and my partner was unable to retrieve it. If someone with more skill or patience is able to snag it, shoot me a PM. Would be happy to pay for it to get shipped and will get you some beer for your trouble! Jul 5, 2017
MAKB
Denver, CO
MAKB   Denver, CO  
Where does the name come from? Aug 28, 2017
Nick Tripp  
 
This was perhaps the MOST SPECTACULAR moderate pitch I've ever done: 10/10 stars!

For what it's worth, I was able to place a big nut on the last 1/3 of the arete that would have been bomber regardless of which side of the arete I could have whipped over. My partner did not appreciate it though! :) Mar 26, 2018
Bogdan P
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Bogdan P   Boulder, CO
  5.7
The climbing was fine, but the route itself felt very contrived. You're never more than several feet above the 4th (3rd?) Class gully that makes up the 5th pitch of standard Rewritten as it's documented in Steve Levin's book. Oct 4, 2018