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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sayat-Nova S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Joe O'Laughlin, Steve Turner, 1968
Page Views: 8,745 total · 135/month
Shared By: Joshinator on Apr 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is most popularly done as a variation to the fifth pitch of Rewritten. From the dead tree belay of Rewritten, avoid the chossy gully and head straight out right on to the edge of the arete. There is more protection than would first appear. Have fun peeking over the edge and head right up to the top. Then carefully downclimb 5-10 feet to the notch. It is 80'.

It can also be done from lower on Rewritten, right after the hand traverse and finger crack on pitch 4. Instead of moving left, head straight up the arete. It is 190', PG-13.

It can also be accessed from Tower Corner Exit. Reach the arete by moving left up a ramp system, then follow to the top as above. It is 130'.

Protection

Standard Eldorado rack.
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s. Apr 8, 2014
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.7
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.7
Simply brilliant pitch. Oct 4, 2014
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page. Aug 11, 2015
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Had a 0.4 walk from rope drag about halfway up the arete, and my partner was unable to retrieve it. If someone with more skill or patience is able to snag it, shoot me a PM. Would be happy to pay for it to get shipped and will get you some beer for your trouble! Jul 5, 2017
MAKB
Denver, CO
MAKB   Denver, CO  
Where does the name come from? Aug 28, 2017
Nick Tripp  
 
This was perhaps the MOST SPECTACULAR moderate pitch I've ever done: 10/10 stars!

For what it's worth, I was able to place a big nut on the last 1/3 of the arete that would have been bomber regardless of which side of the arete I could have whipped over. My partner did not appreciate it though! :) Mar 26, 2018

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