Avg: 3.5 from 540 votes
Trad, 2 pitches
|FA:||Dave Dornan, Dallas Jackson, 1960, FFA: Larry Dalke, ~1965|
|Page Views:||38,868 total · 154/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1. Start by climbing a short, 40-foot pitch up an easy corner to a belay ledge.
P2. The next pitch is for real. Start by using two parallel cracks about three feet apart until the right crack becomes too thin to use. Climb the left crack through a wide section until it becomes a smooth dihedral with thin fingers in the back. Climb the dihedral until you are just under the roof and then step across the face to the right onto a blunt arete that leads to the top. After the lip at the top there is about 30 feet of easy runout to a large rappel bolt on the Red Ledge.
From here, climb the top half of Rewritten to the top, or make one double-rope rappel to the ground. It doesn't get any better.
Per tooTALLtim: If you continue above P2: from the P2 belay, move up and left along Red Ledge. Belay where Grandmother's Challenge ends, in the alcove next to the BIG boulder, by the tree.
P3: Climb up a large block to a short hand crack, towards the blocky roof. The exposure here is great. Hand traverse under the roof, and pull over on bomber finger locks (5.8).
P4: Continue up the beautiful corner to the top of Rebuffat's Arete. (5.8) You might see some people on the arete climbing Rewritten.
P5: Now join with Rewritten's face climbing to the top. (5.5)"