Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dave Dornan, Dallas Jackson, 1960, FFA: Larry Dalke, ~1965
Page Views: 42,258 total · 150/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is my favorite 5.9 route in Eldo. It is a great line up a cool dihedral, and the moves are very fun and interesting. The crux is thin-fingers liebacking or stemming in an interesting corner. The route begins in a corner about 20 feet to the right of Grandmother's Challenge. It is also about 50 feet left of the West Chimney.

P1. Start by climbing a short, 40-foot pitch up an easy corner to a belay ledge.

P2. The next pitch is for real. Start by using two parallel cracks about three feet apart until the right crack becomes too thin to use. Climb the left crack through a wide section until it becomes a smooth dihedral with thin fingers in the back. Climb the dihedral until you are just under the roof and then step across the face to the right onto a blunt arete that leads to the top. After the lip at the top there is about 30 feet of easy runout to a large rappel bolt on the Red Ledge.

From here, climb the top half of Rewritten to the top, or make one double-rope rappel to the ground. It doesn't get any better.

Per tooTALLtim: If you continue above P2: from the P2 belay, move up and left along Red Ledge. Belay where Grandmother's Challenge ends, in the alcove next to the BIG boulder, by the tree.

P3: Climb up a large block to a short hand crack, towards the blocky roof. The exposure here is great. Hand traverse under the roof, and pull over on bomber finger locks (5.8).

P4: Continue up the beautiful corner to the top of Rebuffat's Arete. (5.8) You might see some people on the arete climbing Rewritten.

P5: Now join with Rewritten's face climbing to the top. (5.5)"

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad rack of nuts and cams. Some TCUs or Aliens would be helpful for the second pitch.