Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 39.932, -105.287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 143,761 total · 926/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 with updates from Clint Locks
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.

This section of Redgarden Wall includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One & Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.

While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks.

Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a.

One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.

There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.

52 Total Climbs

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Location: Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 319
Swanson Arete
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,095
Rewritten
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
The Zot Face
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 313
Rebuffat's Arete
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 234
The Great Zot
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Green Slab Direct
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 33
Sunstar
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 453
The Green Spur
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 317
Darkness 'til Dawn
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 234
Grandmother's Challenge
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 125
The Grand Course
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 96
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite)
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 40
Silver Raven
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Chris Cross
Trad, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
 5
Paris Girl
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Swanson Arete
 319
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Rewritten
 1,095
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
The Zot Face
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Rebuffat's Arete
 313
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Great Zot
 234
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Green Slab Direct
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sunstar
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 4 pitches
The Green Spur
 453
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Darkness 'til Dawn
 317
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Grandmother's Challenge
 234
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Grand Course
 125
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Disappearing Act (aka Krypt…
 96
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Silver Raven
 40
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Chris Cross
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Paris Girl
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Sport
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Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Anyone up there on 8/6/2 Tuesday that know where that huge boulder came from that fell off somewhere up hill from Great Zot? Sunstar? GC? Green Spur? The trail? Aug 7, 2002