Type: Trad, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Chris Archer, Todd Bibler, 1987
Page Views: 1,087 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Sep 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb directly up the finger crack start for Disappearing Act. At the rest on DA before the crux moves into the dihedral, layback up and left to an obvious #3-3.5 Friend placement. Climb & layback up the corner for a few moves to a horizontal out left. Get fail safe cams here. Climb up until you are standing on the horizontal and place a good nut and RPs. Continue straight up, clipping a fixed pin along the way, to reach the top of the first half of Disappearing Act. Continue up the second half of DA.

Location

Start on Disappearing Act and head left and up just before DA's crux. Finish on DA. Rap or lower.

Protection

For Rabbits finishing on DA: RPs, Nuts, Aliens/C4s, 2 sets of Friends 1-3, (1) 3.5 and 4.

Photos

Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.11
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.11
Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun.
My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent.
-Scott Jan 5, 2010