Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Richard Rossiter and Ann Chernoff, 1980 |
Page Views: | 6,351 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Joe Collins on Jul 2, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The better finish to the Great Zot. Lots of tricky routefinding on this route, but I found that the description in Rossiter more or less matches the route very well. There is a lot of runout 5.6 climbing but the "5.8+" traverse near the top looks well protected. See the comments for the Great Zot for a discussion of various routefinding issues on this route.
Start by following the first 3 and a half pitches of the Great Zot. Before you start pitch 4, observe that your eventual goal is the obvious tree and ledge directly above you. At the end of the cruxyness on the leftward traverse of pitch 4, look for a ramp-like weakness that leads up and right to the tree. Belay here.
The next pitch is where the routefinding gets weird. Traverse straight right to a dirty looking left facing dihedral capped by a licheny roof. Climb the dihedral, pulling around to the face on the right before the licheny roof. Once on the face, eye your eventual target: a small tree (the only one) on a ledge up and slightly left. Climb straight up the face looking for a very thin crack that diagonals in from the left.Traverse left on this feature (crux) to a crack and corner system which leads up to the tree and ledge. I thought that this section wasn't any harder than the pitch 4 traverse on the Great Zot.
The last pitch follows easy features to the top.
Start by following the first 3 and a half pitches of the Great Zot. Before you start pitch 4, observe that your eventual goal is the obvious tree and ledge directly above you. At the end of the cruxyness on the leftward traverse of pitch 4, look for a ramp-like weakness that leads up and right to the tree. Belay here.
The next pitch is where the routefinding gets weird. Traverse straight right to a dirty looking left facing dihedral capped by a licheny roof. Climb the dihedral, pulling around to the face on the right before the licheny roof. Once on the face, eye your eventual target: a small tree (the only one) on a ledge up and slightly left. Climb straight up the face looking for a very thin crack that diagonals in from the left.Traverse left on this feature (crux) to a crack and corner system which leads up to the tree and ledge. I thought that this section wasn't any harder than the pitch 4 traverse on the Great Zot.
The last pitch follows easy features to the top.
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