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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Culp and George Hurley, 1965.
Page Views: 1,819 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

If you've done Sunstar and The Roof Wall and want a little more adventure, check out Northumberland Crack. The crack on the second pitch is challenging and exposed. There's some loose rock and lichen, but also some high-quality climbing.

Start about 60' left of the Sunstar chimney. Look for a large block with two trees. Scramble up the block from the right and belay just left of the highest tree.

P1. 5.7, 150'. Climb straight up flakes and cracks aiming for a tree directly above. Watch for loose rock. Pass the tree on the left and climb to a rotten ramp. Traverse left on the ramp to a good belay spot about 30' left of the crack and roof on the second pitch.

P2. 5.9+, 100'. Traverse 30' right on a 3'-wide ledge back towards the crack. Climb up and right to a bolt about 10' below the roof. This is not a good belay spot, so continue on. Climb up to the roof and place a #4 Camalot in the wide crack. You can slide this piece up or place a second #4 Camalot a little higher. Make some strenuous moves to pass the lip of the roof (9+).

The fun isn't over: a few more wide-crack moves get you to a stance where you can finally rest. I belayed here.If you still have a #4 Camalot, you can continue up a flared chimney and belay at a ledge with a tree about 40' higher.

P3. 5.7, 100'. Climb the flared chimney (7; #4 Camalot for pro) to a ledge with a tree. Pass the tree on the left and continue up a steep wall with jugs (6) to the top.

The views from the top are great: Rewritten and The Yellow Spur really stand out.

Descend via the same descent as for Rewritten, The Green Spur, etc. Head north to a notch (follow cairns) and scramble down to the trail.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with extra large cams: two #2, two #3, and two #4 Camalots useful.
mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
This route is a giant choss pile with very few redeeming attributes, but if you enjoy rock crumbling underneath you while climbing, then have at it.

The only good section of rock was about 20 ft of squeeze chimney on P3. Aug 22, 2017
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
The wide crack on P2 is fun! Jun 17, 2015
Patrik
5.9 R
Patrik  
5.9 R
One of the wildest 5.9 cruxes in the canyon! BUT: The second pitch (the 5.9 crux) is quite loose before you get to the wide crack. You might get about three sketchy pieces before the bolt, the rest is crap. And don't expect too much confidence-building clipping that bolt; it's not one of those shiny, beefy things you find in BoCan or Clear Creek. If you're not allergic to double ropes, it could be a good idea; if you pull off any of the loose sharp flakes it could cut your rope. The rock is solid above the crux.
Consider doing The Waiting Room instead of the regular first pitch. Jun 4, 2012
Worthy route you won't see anyone else on.... Apr 3, 2011
Did this climb the other day. The moves were actually really fun, challenging, and not too strenuous, but the off-width part has sharp rock and is a bit dirty but well-protected without anything bigger than a #3.5/4 Camalot. The first 200 feet of the climb is about 5.7 with very loose rock that is stable but easily displaced. The upper two pitches are worth the climb. Just don't climb this route in shorts....

Jack Apr 25, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
The line is hard to find and follow for pitch 2 and has lots of choss. But the crux through the roof is really fun. Taking 2 fist+ sized peices will make it easier to protect. Mar 15, 2006
The first pitch of this climb has as much or more loose rock on it than just about anything I've climbed. But it leads to absolutely stellar climbing above! Nov 4, 2005