Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Bob Culp and George Hurley, 1965.
Page Views: 2,306 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

If you've done Sunstar and The Roof Wall and want a little more adventure, check out Northumberland Crack. The crack on the second pitch is challenging and exposed. There's some loose rock and lichen, but also some high-quality climbing.

Start about 60' left of the Sunstar chimney. Look for a large block with two trees. Scramble up the block from the right and belay just left of the highest tree.

P1. 5.7, 150'. Climb straight up flakes and cracks aiming for a tree directly above. Watch for loose rock. Pass the tree on the left and climb to a rotten ramp. Traverse left on the ramp to a good belay spot about 30' left of the crack and roof on the second pitch.

P2. 5.9+, 100'. Traverse 30' right on a 3'-wide ledge back towards the crack. Climb up and right to a bolt about 10' below the roof. This is not a good belay spot, so continue on. Climb up to the roof and place a #4 Camalot in the wide crack. You can slide this piece up or place a second #4 Camalot a little higher. Make some strenuous moves to pass the lip of the roof (9+).

The fun isn't over: a few more wide-crack moves get you to a stance where you can finally rest. I belayed here.If you still have a #4 Camalot, you can continue up a flared chimney and belay at a ledge with a tree about 40' higher.

P3. 5.7, 100'. Climb the flared chimney (7; #4 Camalot for pro) to a ledge with a tree. Pass the tree on the left and continue up a steep wall with jugs (6) to the top.

The views from the top are great: Rewritten and The Yellow Spur really stand out.

Descend via the same descent as for Rewritten, The Green Spur, etc. Head north to a notch (follow cairns) and scramble down to the trail.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with extra large cams: two #2, two #3, and two #4 Camalots useful.

Photos