Type: Sport, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: prep: Chris Hill, 1980s. FFA: Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson
Page Views: 2,738 total · 55/month
Shared By: dameeser on Apr 19, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route was first bolted by Chris Hill in the 1980s and was attempted by a few of the local legends.  It didn't have an anchor and was approached as a second pitch to Darkness Till Dawn. A flaky,unprotected traverse brought you to the start of the climb.

Over the years, it has seen some interest from well known climbers, but because of the bolting ban, it sat untouched.

This climb now has a two bolt anchor and a direct start. You can climb this route from the ground in one monster, mouth watering, 40 meter pitch! Mega!

It's 14 bolts, but you might want to hang a 6 and 7 foot sling from two of the bolts down low. Don't expect any respect from Christian if you do.  If you can climb 5.14, you should be able to climb 12d/13a R.  You should also untie and solo off when you get to the anchor.

All of the bolts up high were once ring bolts but have since been replaced with fat glue-ins.

This is probably the hardest line in the park.

Location

In the Darkness Till Dawn alcove, this is obvious.

Protection

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It is 40 meters. Knot your ends!

Photos