Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: L. Kor, P. Ament, Dean Moore, 1963. FFA: Jim Erickson, John
Page Views: 24,990 total · 88/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Grandmother's Challenge begins 20 yards left of the nasty chimney that is the start to Swanson's Arete. It lies directly left of the Green Spur. It is the really obvious overhanging offwidth left of the crux on Green Spur.

P1. The first pitch is fun and 5.8. Lead directly up to beneath the intimidating offwidth that splits the overhang.

P2. The second pitch is the crux, this thing looks really hard from the ground, but once you are underneath it doesn't look quite as bad. Place your #4 Camalot in the offwidth, and do a burly lieback up it to a good jam underneath the roof. Get a good stem to rest a tad, place good pro, and do a .10a lieback around the right side of the flake that forms the roof. This whole section is quite sustained and definitely warrants a .10c rating. Once above the roof continue on 70' of good 5.7 face climbing to a large tree.

From here, either continue up to the top of the wall on Green Slab Direct or Green Spur, or make a double rope rappel to the west off the tree. This is one of the best (and most awkward) .10s in Eldo.

Protection Suggest change

You need a #4 Camalot for the crux, and a #3 is also very useful.

Unusual phenomena Suggest change

Note, sound can emanate from this crack from climbers on Darkness til Dawn.