Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,283 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a good climb in an area of the wall that is known for bad rock and less than classic climbs. The first 50' climbs somewhat suspect, lichen covered rock, but the upper finger and handcrack is as good as any in the canyon. Start on top of the block with a juniper tree growing out of it. Climb up and left to a concave groove on the arete that contains a thin crack. Head straight up aiming for the right of two right-facing corners above. There is a ledge here for an optional belay, but it is only about 50' up and it is best to continue up the crack in the corner for about 120' to a belay stance shared with Northumberland Crack. This crack is the best part of the route and has many nice finger locks and excellent gear. This is a great pitch to access Northumberland Crack without having to do its grungy first pitch.

Location

Waiting room is located to the right of The Hot Spur and to the left of The Dull Men's Club. It starts on top of a large block with a juniper tree growing out of it which lies against the wall. If you stand back from the wall, you can see the upper crack from the trail.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack to a #4 Camalot. (You will want several #4s if continuing up Northumberland Crack).
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
It's nice to have a #3 or #4 for the belay. There is a nice crack on the left wall, and the rest of the ledge is a shattered mess. A #2 or a large hex might fit as well... Just save something large for the belay.

Also:
In case you are not up for the Northumberland Crack finish, it is possible to escape to the left at the top of this route. Maybe all the way to the walkoff but at least over to the Hot Spur. Mar 26, 2011
I did this route this past weekend as an alternate start to Hot Spur (you know it's crowded in Eldo when you have to wait to get on Hot Spur). It's a little rough around the edges in places but has some pretty nice climbing up higher. Sep 27, 2016
I was trying to do this route by following the line drawn in Steve Levin's guidebook but was apparently too far to the R -- chossy and 5.5. Aug 22, 2017