Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,342 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a good climb in an area of the wall that is known for bad rock and less than classic climbs. The first 50' climbs somewhat suspect, lichen covered rock, but the upper finger and handcrack is as good as any in the canyon. Start on top of the block with a juniper tree growing out of it. Climb up and left to a concave groove on the arete that contains a thin crack. Head straight up aiming for the right of two right-facing corners above. There is a ledge here for an optional belay, but it is only about 50' up and it is best to continue up the crack in the corner for about 120' to a belay stance shared with Northumberland Crack. This crack is the best part of the route and has many nice finger locks and excellent gear. This is a great pitch to access Northumberland Crack without having to do its grungy first pitch.

Location Suggest change

Waiting room is located to the right of The Hot Spur and to the left of The Dull Men's Club. It starts on top of a large block with a juniper tree growing out of it which lies against the wall. If you stand back from the wall, you can see the upper crack from the trail.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Eldo rack to a #4 Camalot. (You will want several #4s if continuing up Northumberland Crack).

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