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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: NA
Page Views: 1,895 total, 11/month
Shared By: Adam Hicks` on Aug 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

To get to this variation, follow the first four pitches of the Great Zot as Rossiter describes it and not as it is described here (from the left angling hand crack continue straight left to a big tree in a gully instead of cutting back right to the tree belay below Zot Face). The variation is a different last pitch to this route, and is described well by Rossiter.

P5: From the big tree belay in the gully, climb up the gully a few feet past the tree until you spy above you on the face a crack-like weakness. This is the route. Rossiter illustrates it as being a double crack at the top, and indeed it is, but the features can hardly be called cracks. The pitch passes a piton with a ring about half-height, and finishes just right of the large tower that rewritten finishes on.

I don't give this variation many stars because although it has exciting exposure differentiating from the traditional Great Zot finish and adds to the overall quality of airiness that the fourth pitch delivers, it is very very loose. In the so-called cracks are flakes just waiting to be yarded on. It is definitely a matter of opinion, and this pitch delivers its' full dose of adventure, but finding good placements can be interesting at times. At one point there is an easy offwidth section within which lies a large loose block that would sever your rope at the very least. Be careful, and have fun.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack; there is one fixed pin on this route.

Photos

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Adam Hicks`  
 
I was actually going to add that as another variation, but the site went haywrie. PRobably a good recommendation to not have this as a whole route in itself, but seeing as how The Great Zot isn't described on this site at all, except for the beginning up to the Zot Face finish, I thought it seemed worthy as an addition.

It isn't good, but it's better than the standard finish, so I gave it one star. The finish you've described is the best finish to The Great Zot, deserving of three stars with some pretty spectacular fun! Aug 14, 2003
I'm not sure this variation needs to be added as a separate route. Perhaps add it as a comment under the Great Zot maybe?

In any case, I've done this, as well as just about every other Great Zot variation while soloing in that area, and can't recommend much about this variation. Avoid it, as it's the worst way to finish the Great Zot. My favorite way of finishing the Great Zot is the wide crack that forms the right side of the tower of Rebuffet's Arete. Fun, mostly solid rock, and pretty mellow for wide-5.8. Aug 13, 2003