All Locations >
Colorado
> Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Green Slab Direct
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 95 votes
Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R | |
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Bob Culp and Henry Heuerman, 1961 |
Page Views: | 6,077 total, 30/month |
Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Apr 17, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
A fun route with some damn longs leads. We're not 100 percent sure we did the route correct, so take this discussion with a grain of salt.P1: Start in a nice crack system near the left edge of the alcove containing Darkness 'Til Dawn - about 20 left of that route. Ascend easy climbing up crack systems, aiming for the roof about 80 feet off the ground. There's a pin just underneath the left corner of the roof; clip and power over (5.8). Continue up, angling slightly right and then back left. Hit the rotten band and move up and a bit left and belay just left of a small tree growing out of the band. You will be even with the anchors of Darkness 'til Dawn 140', 5.8+.
P2: Go straight up easy crack systems on the face. Avoid getting pulled left to the big trees. Right up the face to a nice big ledge. Belay at the low point of the ledge, right in the middle fo the face and below the obvious crack you will be climbing next. 90', 5.5.
P3: Here's where it gets interesting. On the middle part of the ramp, a steep crack system gets gradually more difficult (5.7 then 5.8+ then 5.9). You will notice a fixed pix 10' to the left after about 50', which is not on this route. Continue straight up as it gets more strenuous (there's a small brass stopper that is now probably fixed pro thanks to my first 15-foot whipper at this point). The crack eventually turns to small fingers. At this point, going straight up is 10d R. Going left is 5.9+R, though only for a short section. Going right is 5.9PG, where you aim for the large ramp system about 10 feet away. In any case, all options converge on the ramp which you follow for about 40 more feet of easy climbing. Belay at a decent stance in the right-facing dihedral in the middle of the face. 5.9, 140'.
P4: Follow the dihedral up and out to a dead tree. Then, we continued up and slightly left, finishing in a V-dihedral. However, we believe the correct route actual is to move up and angle right (5.6) past a tree, to finish.
Descent: Follow the trail running on the east side of the ridge north for about 150 yards. Look for several cairns, and follow them up to a notch and then down class 3 scrambling to the west and north. Rejoin the main Redgarden trail, grab your bags, and go get a beer.
Photos
29 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
I have subsequently done the route 5 more times by several variations, including the now-standard Rossiter described route, and it felt trivial by comparison to our icy epic!
Overall, still one of my all-time favorite climbs in the canyon. Sep 13, 2010
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Man, that is just the way it is in this area. Jun 28, 2009
Colorado
I traversed right (just before the crack ended on the third pitch) at an undercling and moved over to the right facing dihedral / ramp. This move was easier than some of the other moves along the crack.
The route seemed easier than most Eldo .9s I've done, but I would still call it a .9. Maybe next time I should try the .9+ left option that seems so popular. Nov 2, 2008
Denver, CO
Arvada
Colorado Springs, CO
Unfortunately, I really liked the 3rd pitch. Fun, finger crack climbing and in your face for the direct finish. However, I don't think that could offset the feeling of dread I had for a large section of the climb, in case one of the, at least, 50 large blocks I had to pull on were to come off. Oct 15, 2006
Golden, CO
With that said, holy loose rock! The first pictch had a lot of hollow sounds loose rock and flakes. The second pitch was better but only the crux section. I did not see a pin but climbed up the great 8 crack into the 9 finger crack, and then when it abruptly ended I moved slightly right into the ramp. If this crack was longer, it would be a 5 star classic - as it is you feel cheated of something great.
The ramp was more of the same from the first pitch - loose, easy, climbing on hollow flakes.
3 stars for length and exposure.
1 star for loose rock and hollow flakes.
2 stars overall Aug 22, 2006
Like most before me, I did get a bit lost on the 3rd pitch where the crack tapers off. I did think about going straight up, actually made a few moves and became a bit concerned I was going off route, so I downclimbed and headed left towards a fixed Metolius, up about 15', and then did a no hands traverse right. My guess is that this not the correct way but it was interesting.
Overall, it is a nice climb. Aug 14, 2006
Around Boulder, CO
Colorado
My beta for the last two pitches: From the big ledge, follow the crack system to the end of the cracks. Traverse right and get onto the ramp. Follow the ramp and climb to the tree with rotten webbing and belay there. Climb to the top. The hardest move felt 5.9 with good pro. The Dark Horse awaits you my good friends... May 29, 2004
Boulder, CO
North Vancouver, BC
Denver, CO
Nov 12, 2001
Seattle, WA
We set an anchor 10 ft above & to the right of the fixed nut. Plenty of space in that crack for a #3 Camalot, big blue tricam, and a #1 Camalot.
Sweet pitch otherwise though. Nice combination of face moves and crack climbing. Good pro with nuts in the crack. Take lots of small Aliens otherwise for the upper crack, but stoppers seemed to fit better. Oct 29, 2001
Tucson, AZ
Kristo's description matches what I did, as well as one of the possibilities in Rossiter. Seems pretty well-protected with gear about 5 feet left. Sep 25, 2001
Canmore, AB