Avg: 2.7 from 122 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Culp and Henry Heuerman, 1961|
|Page Views:||7,948 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Komarnitsky on Apr 17, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1: Start in a nice crack system near the left edge of the alcove containing Darkness 'Til Dawn - about 20 left of that route. Ascend easy climbing up crack systems, aiming for the roof about 80 feet off the ground. There's a pin just underneath the left corner of the roof; clip and power over (5.8). Continue up, angling slightly right and then back left. Hit the rotten band and move up and a bit left and belay just left of a small tree growing out of the band. You will be even with the anchors of Darkness 'til Dawn 140', 5.8+.
P2: Go straight up easy crack systems on the face. Avoid getting pulled left to the big trees. Right up the face to a nice big ledge. Belay at the low point of the ledge, right in the middle fo the face and below the obvious crack you will be climbing next. 90', 5.5.
P3: Here's where it gets interesting. On the middle part of the ramp, a steep crack system gets gradually more difficult (5.7 then 5.8+ then 5.9). You will notice a fixed pix 10' to the left after about 50', which is not on this route. Continue straight up as it gets more strenuous (there's a small brass stopper that is now probably fixed pro thanks to my first 15-foot whipper at this point). The crack eventually turns to small fingers. At this point, going straight up is 10d R. Going left is 5.9+R, though only for a short section. Going right is 5.9PG, where you aim for the large ramp system about 10 feet away. In any case, all options converge on the ramp which you follow for about 40 more feet of easy climbing. Belay at a decent stance in the right-facing dihedral in the middle of the face. 5.9, 140'.
P4: Follow the dihedral up and out to a dead tree. Then, we continued up and slightly left, finishing in a V-dihedral. However, we believe the correct route actual is to move up and angle right (5.6) past a tree, to finish.
Descent: Follow the trail running on the east side of the ridge north for about 150 yards. Look for several cairns, and follow them up to a notch and then down class 3 scrambling to the west and north. Rejoin the main Redgarden trail, grab your bags, and go get a beer.