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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Christian Griffith, 1986
Page Views: 867 total, 15/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Dec 26, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin as for Darkness 'Till Dawn. Very early on, move right underclinging to two thin cracks then right to a bolt. Straight above the bolt, grapple with the crux and latch better holds gaining the arete. Then stay on the arete.

Location

This is to the right of Darkness 'Til Dawn.

Protection

SR.

Photos

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dameeser
denver
  5.12d R
dameeser   denver
  5.12d R
There is now a direct start to this climb. It adds some low 5.12 to the climb. Instead of traversing off of the face, you can end your adventure at the start of the Twist and Crawl project.

If you plan to go ground up, you will need some RPs and a draw with two lockers. Expect 5.12 run-outs. I would recommend you climb Darkness Till Dawn and traverse into the Twist and Crawl project's first bolt anchor. From there, you can use that anchor to hang a double length sling on bolt 7 and a double + a single on bolt 6. May 24, 2017
dameeser
denver
  5.12d R
dameeser   denver
  5.12d R
The climbing on the face is AMAZING. This is a long forgotten gem. I only gave it two stars because of how indirect the climbing is. There is no gear after the bolt on the face, so if someone is going to follow it, they are not allowed to fall.

I traversed over to the Spur of the Moment anchor. The only gear I placed after the bolt was on the arete, so after I clipped the anchor, I traversed back over to the arete, cleaned the gear, climbed back to the anchor, pulled the rope, and rapped. I then climbed up Darkness Till Dawn and traversed over to the first bolt on the Twist and Crawl Project. It's directly above the face climbing on The Color of Pomegranates. The first bolt on the Twist and Crawl Project is a fat glue in with a ring. I then used that anchor to clean my gear.

It's harder than Book of Numbers, Je T'Aime, Madame Guillotine, and Hairstyles and Attitudes. The bolt has been replaced with a glue-in. Expect run out 5.12 climbing above the bolt. The climbing is easy when you traverse off the face towards the arete. Apr 3, 2017
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
How hard is the R-section, and are the bolts any good? Nov 5, 2015