Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Roger Briggs
Page Views: 8,716 total · 39/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Feb 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route lies beyond Grandmother's Challenge. Darkness till Dawn is the obvious dihedral around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge. Disappearing Act is uphill 20 yards, directly to the left of Paris Girl, a bolted .13a face left of Darkness. The route begins with a finger crack reminiscent of Chockstone on the West Ridge, then enters a right-facing dihedral to a spot where one can step left to belay. This climb is on excellent rock, the difficulty lies mainly in hanging on through thirty feet of sustained climbing, and placing pro. From the top of the first pitch, one can step left and easily rap of a tree to the base. The second pitch continues up an obvious thin crack next to the arete, then moves over into a left-facing dihedral, .10c I believe (we didn't do this pitch) an excellent climb.

Protection

There is a fixed pin (no longer) halfway up pitch one, otherwise you will need a good selection of small to medium stoppers, TCUs, and some midrange cams (#1 Camalot size). A #2 Camalot will protect the opening moves off the pedestal. This is quite well-protected.

Photos