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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roger Briggs
Page Views: 7,819 total, 38/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Feb 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route lies beyond Grandmother's Challenge. Darkness till Dawn is the obvious dihedral around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge. Disappearing Act is uphill 20 yards, directly to the left of Paris Girl, a bolted .13a face left of Darkness. The route begins with a finger crack reminiscent of Chockstone on the West Ridge, then enters a right-facing dihedral to a spot where one can step left to belay. This climb is on excellent rock, the difficulty lies mainly in hanging on through thirty feet of sustained climbing, and placing pro. From the top of the first pitch, one can step left and easily rap of a tree to the base. The second pitch continues up an obvious thin crack next to the arete, then moves over into a left-facing dihedral, .10c I believe (we didn't do this pitch) an excellent climb.

Protection

There is a fixed pin (no longer) halfway up pitch one, otherwise you will need a good selection of small to medium stoppers, TCUs, and some midrange cams (#1 Camalot size). A #2 Camalot will protect the opening moves off the pedestal. This is quite well-protected.
No fixed gear as of this morning. Protects well with a selection of cams and nuts. Best as a single pitch. Super fun! Sep 8, 2017
There is no longer a fixed pin on the route. May 3, 2015
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.11a
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.11a
Aka Kryptonite from S. Levin guide, the stuff that kills Superman. Another classic pumper. Mar 26, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
I'll add to the praise: this route is from bottom to the top an incredible climb. The gear is good and everywhere you want it but sometimes strenuous to place, which I think adds to the difficulty of the route. Overall, I thought the hardest moves were moving from the left crack into the right-facing dihedral. The moves off the pedestal are very well protected, and if you're sly enough, you can slide a bomber small stopper just high enough that if you were to blow the moves you wouldn't hit the pedestal. I led this as one long pitch and could have used a few more double length runners for the upper crack that bends around the arete. A 70m rope makes the rap no problem. Jul 9, 2012
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.11a
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.11a
Really fun route! 130 feet of good climbing the whole way broken up by 2 great rests. I found the crux getting to the fixed cam not above in the dihedral, but that's just me. The whole climb protects really well. I did find one spot where I was 5/6 ft. above a #4 RP that was an ok placement, but aside form that, there is gear all over this thing. If you are in the area, go for it! Great climbing on great gear. Jun 27, 2011
SirVato
Boulder
  5.11a
SirVato   Boulder
  5.11a
Awesome pitch!! Just before the crux there's a fixed purple TCU that can be clipped (blindly). I backed it up as soon as possible!! Great route. Makes you go a bit above your (small) gear in a couple spots, and I thought it was pretty balancy and reachy, but I'm only 5'5". A 70 meter rope will get you back down with about ten feet left. Oct 1, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I've done this route a few times. The first time was with a Jens Meyer after work in 1995 when we ran up with nothing but a set of stoppers and maybe 2-3 cams to do Grand Course. We did that route and on rap we saw D.A. We had no book with us but we had plenty of time. I racked back up and lead this pitch, finding nothing worth belaying off of at the top of the pillar with the rack we had (stoppers), so I kept going up. Done as one pitch, this felt like 5.11a, R. A few years later I went back up with Matt (I forget his last name) I lead the bottom, which felt like 10d, and he got the top pitch. We took more than stoppers that time, but sure enough, maybe 10-15' off of the belay he popped off, popped a piece, and landed next to me on his butt on the pillar. I'll never forget looking him straight in the eye as he hit and seeing his face- I thought something was broke. Matt was a tough guy though- he said he'd finish it following despite the tail-bone bruise. Second pitch felt like 10d that time, though I definitely had a ledge fall in my head the whole time. Moral of the story? Well, I suppose to watch the gear, and to take cams to shove up under flakes on P2. As well, that the grade may depend on how you do it- as one pitch or as two. Oct 6, 2003
Kirk Woerner
  5.11a
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11a
Aw Ben, please don't take my 11a from me :) This IS a soft 11, but I like to think it's a soft 11, not a hard 10. It's a lot harder at the bottom if you try to stick ONLY with the finger crack (don't use the stems out left). That being said, I can't imagine why the stems out left wouldn't be "on"... And there's still enough crimpy nastiness to deserve a 5.11 rating IMO.

This is a great route, and you should DEFINITELY do the whole thing as one pitch. A single rope WILL make it down from the tree at the very top as long as you rap left. This just means that you HAVE to bring the second up to the top since you can't lower the route with one rope. Oct 6, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I followed this route yesterday, what a great climb! From the tree at the top, you can rap all the way to the ground using one 60m rope. Mar 16, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
Ahhh, what an incredible pitch! I placed a #4 Friend at the start... it could take a #2 Camalot but the #4 Friend placement is a bit higher in the crack. On lead the obvious way seemed to lieback up to the pin, then bust a move back right into the dihedral. My partner stayed in the dihedral the whole way and said it was tough stemming, but probably not as hard as the way I led it. This climb goes easily as 1 pitch (140 feet?) with little rope drag, even if you're like me and don't runner it too well. Oct 5, 2002
If you take care runnering your gear on the first pitch (better yet use double ropes) it works fine to combine both pitches into a single lead (60M rope) more bang for your buck! Aug 23, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
There actually two ways to do this pitch. After the initial finger crack one can go left up to a pin, or continue straight up and avoid the pin. Rossiter tells you to go straight up, I was confused and went left on some strenuous liebacking, still probably about .11a, perhaps a little more devious than going straight up? Going straight up to the belay from the pin looks really cool, however it gets .10+ in the old b.c. south and now gets .11d in the new guidebook! Jan 1, 2001
Going straight up from the pin (called Rabbits from Hats) was called 10d in the old guide, but this was a typo. More like hard 5.11. Most folks, on the sharp end, lieback strenuously up to the pin, (which can be backed up with an excellent 3.5 Friend/blue Camalot) then step right, thought it may be a tad easier to keep right. Second pitch is very good. It has a deceptive move at the start, which is 5.10d Eldo, (which means solid 5.11 modern sport). This is harder than any individual move on the first pitch. After this it reverts to about 5.9. Jan 1, 2001