Type: Trad, 5 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, 1960.
Page Views: 26,791 total · 94/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun, moderate route near Rewritten. The route starts about 12 feet to the left of the West Chimney. This route has some interesting and unique crack climbing on it that is not to be missed.

P1. The first pitch goes up the crack in the middle of the face to the left of West Chimney. It opens up into a small cave and then jams out the top of the cave for a fun lead.

P2. The next pitch is not fun. It is and ugly, upward traverse right to the red ledge about the West Chimney.

P3. The third pitch is short and climbs a 5.7 crack and corners to the left of the gully until a stance at the bottom of an incredible hand traverse left.

P4. Pitch four is the best pitch of the climb and is airy and exhilarating. Follow the obvious hand crack the traverses diagonally left. The crack is very reminiscent of a short section on Rewritten but is far longer. The exposure here is great. The best way to go is about halfway along this crack reach a small stance and climb up and to the right to a ledge with a tree. Watch out for rope drag.

P5. From here climb the Zot Face to the top via one or two pitches. This part is runout but is an incredible place to be climbing.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack of nuts and cams.

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