Type: Trad, 5 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, 1960.
Page Views: 26,791 total · 94/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

311 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a fun, moderate route near Rewritten. The route starts about 12 feet to the left of the West Chimney. This route has some interesting and unique crack climbing on it that is not to be missed.

P1. The first pitch goes up the crack in the middle of the face to the left of West Chimney. It opens up into a small cave and then jams out the top of the cave for a fun lead.

P2. The next pitch is not fun. It is and ugly, upward traverse right to the red ledge about the West Chimney.

P3. The third pitch is short and climbs a 5.7 crack and corners to the left of the gully until a stance at the bottom of an incredible hand traverse left.

P4. Pitch four is the best pitch of the climb and is airy and exhilarating. Follow the obvious hand crack the traverses diagonally left. The crack is very reminiscent of a short section on Rewritten but is far longer. The exposure here is great. The best way to go is about halfway along this crack reach a small stance and climb up and to the right to a ledge with a tree. Watch out for rope drag.

P5. From here climb the Zot Face to the top via one or two pitches. This part is runout but is an incredible place to be climbing.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack of nuts and cams.