Avg: 2.8 from 286 votes
Trad, 5 pitches
|FA:||Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, 1960.|
|Page Views:||24,204 total · 95/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1. The first pitch goes up the crack in the middle of the face to the left of West Chimney. It opens up into a small cave and then jams out the top of the cave for a fun lead.
P2. The next pitch is not fun. It is and ugly, upward traverse right to the red ledge about the West Chimney.
P3. The third pitch is short and climbs a 5.7 crack and corners to the left of the gully until a stance at the bottom of an incredible hand traverse left.
P4. Pitch four is the best pitch of the climb and is airy and exhilarating. Follow the obvious hand crack the traverses diagonally left. The crack is very reminiscent of a short section on Rewritten but is far longer. The exposure here is great. The best way to go is about halfway along this crack reach a small stance and climb up and to the right to a ledge with a tree. Watch out for rope drag.
P5. From here climb the Zot Face to the top via one or two pitches. This part is runout but is an incredible place to be climbing.