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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Jeff Sherman, Hunter Smith, John Ruger, 1974
Page Views: 17,048 total, 85/month
Shared By: Ben F on Jun 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Had I not had to go uphill and out of site to use the bathroom before doing Vertigo last week, I would not have seen this beauty. D.t.D is just around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge in a shaded alcove. This climb stays shaded a long time. No one does the 2nd pitch and no one should want to do it.

Basically, start on big holds and a crack on the right side of the dihedral. This climb throws it all at you. I had fist jams, hand jams, thin hands, finger locks, side pulls, jugs, a couple of crimps, stems, feet in the crack and feet on small edges (don't worry, if I forgot something, this pitch probably has it). The other really nice thing about this route is that it is fairly sustained and stays interesting. The climb is nice and steep, especially the first section, and it may even stay dry in the rain. If you can't tell by now, I enjoyed the heck out of this climb.

Protection

The first pitch is about 140 feet long and has chain anchors. I placed a #4 Camalot near the top for added comfort. Otherwise, bring a standard rack.
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
 
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
 
Gotta say, I wish I had brought my #4 on this, mostly for the lower portion which was wide. Couldn't find any decent gear for about 10 feet, though maybe I wasn't looking in the right places. Other than that, you can sew this thing up if you want. Jul 24, 2017
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10+ PG13
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10+ PG13
P1+2 is still a long, scary, physical, phenomenal pitch! Nothing has broken off P2...yet. Mar 20, 2017
Burly and sustained! Stays in the shade, which is handy. Really fun. Mar 14, 2017
Only do the 2nd pitch if you like climbing on and around huge, loose, death flakes. If you do, the gear is surprisingly good and the movement is cool. Oct 6, 2015
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.10a/b
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.10a/b
Good rests but very sustained.
The gear was excellent, but I felt like I had to work for some on it.
You can TR this easily with a 70m rope. Jul 17, 2013
ShireSmitty
Boulda
5.9+
ShireSmitty   Boulda
5.9+
Onsight after rapping down Grandmother's Challenge and sooooo glad I did this route! It'll be on my circuit now for sure, high quality! I used a 4, 3.5, and 3 C4 down low in the wide part of the crack and all smaller stuff the rest of the way. Previous commenter gave it a PG-13 gear rating, but I disagree. There is bomber gear everywhere you look on this thing, and you could easily put a piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. Down low you can protect the exposed moves into the corner committing to the crack by putting big cams out right, as I mentioned. Throws everything at you but with no-hands stances (I found 4 of them) and endless palming and stemming. I made it the original 5.9 by climbing efficiently, I can see how 10a is fair as well. Sustained and awesome, go do it! Apr 4, 2013
Michael Butts
Boulder, Co
  5.10a PG13
Michael Butts   Boulder, Co
  5.10a PG13
Super CLASSIC 5.10 climbing. One of the best 10s I have done anywhere. This climb just eats up gear all the way to the top. Save a #1 or #2 for the top. Fun, sustained climbing with good rests. Jun 26, 2012
FOUND: Gear sling with QDs and a cam Saturday June 9, 2012. Gear has a one of a kind paint / tape job, so please give me an accurate description of it and it's yours! Jun 11, 2012
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10+ PG13
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10+ PG13
Despite the looks of it, there's actually a bunch of solid gear on P2. I found a bomber brown tricam, 0.75, and 0.5 in the bizness of the roof. Now the rock you have to pull on, that's loose for sure.

You can link P1 and P2 for an amazing pitch with a 60m; go for it! Also, the crack start on P1 is great. Dec 7, 2011
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c
P2 beta:

I tried the 2nd pitch, was through the cool slot (undercling), and was at the white dagger hand hold in the corner (over halfway) when I decided to escape left since I could not see any gear on the upper right exit moves nor a rest.
But later I noticed I totally missed a large foot hold stance on the right face slightly above my head, doh! Oct 17, 2011
shaftoe  
I agree that a few small hexes and a #4 might make you happy. Sep 7, 2011
If you have 2 #4s, the bottom half will be a little more secure. Not required, but if this is at your limit, you will be happy to have them. May 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
For this climb I only had 1 #3, though doubles in #2 helped. Also, this was a climb where I wished I had lugged some smaller hexes along... looked like some great placement s! Also, you get a good rest every 10 feet at the very least, so don't be intimidated by the grade. I went into this climb thinking it was a 5.9. Pretty soft for the grade, compared to other 5.10as I have done in Eldo (Born under Punches, var. to Yellow Spur, Rosy Crucifixion...). Aug 15, 2009
I had a harder time on this route than on the first and last pitches of the Naked Edge. Apr 22, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Despite the rests, I thought this route was enjoyably sustained. I brought a #3.5 and #4 Camalot and placed one towards the bottom and another at the very top, though a #2 Camalot would have worked at the top. Beyond that I had a standard rack and placed a variety of pro from small nuts to a #3 Camalot. Oct 24, 2008
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.10a
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.10a
What a climb! Great variation of moves. If only this went to the top, Couldn't get enough of this route. Wow! May 7, 2007
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Great long pitch. Milk those rest stances. No hard moves, just tricky sequences. Onsight 2/1/06!!! Feb 1, 2006
?????
  5.9+
?????  
  5.9+
One of the best pitches.... Nov 11, 2005
Danny
  5.10a
Danny  
  5.10a
I've seen this one several times coming down the trail after doing other climbs and have always been intimidated. However, I rapped off the tree after finishing Grandmother's Challenge the other day and gave it a go. I am just getting into 10a Eldo leads and I found this one to be really fun and reasonable, albeit long. The gear is generally very secure and almost all moves are followed by good rests. Highly [recommended]. Nov 10, 2005
Great route, a number of challenges and good pro before each. I found a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot very useful down low after the initial transition into the corner. Oct 11, 2004
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Excellent route. You will use all your climbing skills. Great pro. Crux in middle is thin. This is the perfect rain climb. We took our time and climbed dry through a good rain for 45 minutes.Climber and belayer stayed dry. It wasn't windy but just a steady rain. Aug 14, 2004
Chris Weber
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Weber   Boulder, CO
 
Caution: people have been dropped when toproping the route, with tragic results. If you are going to toprope, DEFINITELY tie a knot in the end of the belayer's rope, even with a 60m.Even then, downclimbing is required, and some scrambling by the belayer. Oct 13, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I did his climb for the first time yesterday. It is indeed a must do for the grade. Next time, I would leave the large cams on the ground. Bring two #1, #2, and #3 camolats. A single 30M rap works well, with a short low fifth class down climb. Jun 22, 2003
you CAN rap with a 60m, you just have to downclimb the first easy section. just make sure you start downclimbing BEFORE you hit the end of the rope! Jan 6, 2003
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Keep in mind that you need two ropes to get down (unless you have a 70m rope). Summer '02 there was an accident here and I know someone that also let the end of the rope slip through the belay device and caught it with one had. Yikes! Jan 3, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
Excelet Climb!!! Many short cruxes with rest in between them all. If it feel hard you are not milking all the rests. Take 2x2, 2 x 3 , 3.5, 4. It looks small from the ground but if get quite wide in places. Aug 26, 2002
There is also a DIRECT FINISH to this that gets you to the tree. It's obvious, about .10+, and was a real favorite of Derek's. Don't let that last fact dissuade you though, it's well worth doing. Double ropes let you lead it all with no drag and make for an great rap back down. Aug 21, 2002
One can climb up and left on bad rock from the anchor at about 5.6R to access Green Slab Direct. Helmets and a belayer who is ready to sprint out of the way of the oncoming rockslide are a must. I seem to remember doing this in one 60m pitch from the ground. The climbing is way-jingus but it goes. Aug 20, 2002
Ok, I must make it harder than it needs to be because last time I did this route my second (Lindsay Gill) walked up it in tennis shoes!... May 21, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Stemming and Palm-smearing are the technique keys necessary to keep this route feeling like it's original grade of 5.9 Jan 23, 2002
I find this route to be pretty stout for the grade especially because it used to be called 5.9! I would caution anyone who picks this as their first 5.10 in Eldo even though the gear is very good, the crux is thin!!!...Excellent route though, and totaly overlooked. This is a good alternative to other crowded routes in the area. Top o' the li Jan 23, 2002
this is a spectacular climb, and quite long a sustained for the grade, but don't let this scare you. there are several excellent rests and the gear is incredible (many medium nuts camalots .5 to 3), just be sure to bring enough if you don't feel comfortable running it out. to get off i lowered to a height about 20' above the ground with a 60m rope, and then did some very easy downclimbing to the ground. Aug 1, 2001