All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Darkness 'til Dawn

Name: Darkness 'til Dawn
Rating: 3.7

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Chris Cross T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Grand Course, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Sleeves T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jonny Direct, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	One Night Stand T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rabbits From Hats T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Red Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rimmer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sayat-Nova S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time) S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Zot Face, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA:	Jeff Sherman, Hunter Smith, John Ruger, 1974
Page Views:	26,137 total · 91/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Jun 23, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Had I not had to go uphill and out of site to use the bathroom before doing Vertigo last week, I would not have seen this beauty. D.t.D is just around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge in a shaded alcove. This climb stays shaded a long time. No one does the 2nd pitch and no one should want to do it.

Basically, start on big holds and a crack on the right side of the dihedral. This climb throws it all at you. I had fist jams, hand jams, thin hands, finger locks, side pulls, jugs, a couple of crimps, stems, feet in the crack and feet on small edges (don't worry, if I forgot something, this pitch probably has it). The other really nice thing about this route is that it is fairly sustained and stays interesting. The climb is nice and steep, especially the first section, and it may even stay dry in the rain. If you can't tell by now, I enjoyed the heck out of this climb.