Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Jeff Sherman, Hunter Smith, John Ruger, 1974
Page Views: 25,967 total · 92/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Had I not had to go uphill and out of site to use the bathroom before doing Vertigo last week, I would not have seen this beauty. D.t.D is just around the corner from Grandmother's Challenge in a shaded alcove. This climb stays shaded a long time. No one does the 2nd pitch and no one should want to do it.

Basically, start on big holds and a crack on the right side of the dihedral. This climb throws it all at you. I had fist jams, hand jams, thin hands, finger locks, side pulls, jugs, a couple of crimps, stems, feet in the crack and feet on small edges (don't worry, if I forgot something, this pitch probably has it). The other really nice thing about this route is that it is fairly sustained and stays interesting. The climb is nice and steep, especially the first section, and it may even stay dry in the rain. If you can't tell by now, I enjoyed the heck out of this climb.

Protection Suggest change

The first pitch is about 140 feet long and has chain anchors. I placed a #4 Camalot near the top for added comfort. Otherwise, bring a standard rack.

Per Anus Herder: the second pitch is much shorter but steeper ~40 feet. Use thinner pieces #0.75 and below, as well as nuts for P2.