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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 236 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 10, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Just left of the main Darkness 'til Dawn dihedral is a very obvious groove that continues past a small tree. This route is not in the guide, but I've eyed it more than once over the years. We finally climbed it, thinking it might be 10 or so, but since the gear looked to be good, so why not have a go? It turns out it's 9- or so with very good gear and very good climbing. What looks like the crux, moving left where DtD starts its real climbing, turns out to be easy. The actual crux is above the tree in the green corner. The corner eventually blanks out. Move up and right to get some decent holds. From here, the best choice is to continue right into upper DtD. We chose to move left around the arete into a left-facing corner and up to a questionable anchor. Chuck tried to continue up the corner to the DtD anchors, but it got hard, and he had little gear, so we ended up backing up the anchor in the corner and rapping from there. This anchor seems to exist for those who rap from the top of Grandmother's Challenge with a single rope.

Route details: start as for Darkness 'til Dawn or just left and climb up to where DtD enters the crack system on the right wall. Instead, move right and layback up to gain the groove. Moderate climbing leads to a small tree. You could move left here into the left facing corner, but instead, continue up the green corner above. Where it starts to blank out, make a move up and right to get some decent hand holds. Either move right to DtD or stem left to the arete and then left around the corner and up to the anchor.

Location

This is in the same location as Darkness 'til Dawn.

Protection

Standard rack to #2/gold Camalot. If you continue to the Darkness 'til Dawn anchors, you'll need a 70m or double ropes to get down, or will need to downclimb a bit. If you finish to the left, be prepared to back up the fixed anchor.
shaftoe  
This variation is wicked fun....
I liked it almost more than DtD.
Staying in the dihedral at the top is run out and much harder than any part of DtD, but it is easily avoided by finishing on DtD. Sep 7, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I don't think this is what Rossiter is describing as the original Green slab. For both the original and Green Slab direct, he says "Climb a steep slab." The Erickson Rocky Height guide says this of the regular Green Slab: "...begins in the same spot [as the direct] but traverses right before the roof...." In any case neither the variation described here or the original Green Slab to the left gets any traffic. This variation should get a lot more traffic. The original Green Slab perhaps not. Mar 12, 2006
logan johnson
West Copper, Co
logan johnson   West Copper, Co
I think this may be the original start to Green Slab, Rossiter's text is somewhat ambiguous as to which 5.8 dihedral you start with. Mar 11, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Does anyone know the name and history of this route just left of Darkness 'til Dawn? Mar 10, 2006