Type: Trad, TR, 140 ft
FA: Shaun Reed and Matt Reeser
Page Views: 652 total · 40/month
Shared By: Shaun Reed on Aug 10, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Jump! Jump! This pumpy line takes the bolt line to the right of Darkness 'til Dawn, then crisscrosses The Color of Pomegranates to join back into Darkness 'til Dawn above its crux. Shorter folks may have to Jump! Jump!

Protection

5 bolts, a couple RPs for the start of the crack, and cams from 0.3" (blue Metolius or green Alien) and up. We used a single rack up to #3 BD.

Photos

Shaun Reed
Santa Barbara
  5.12a
Shaun Reed   Santa Barbara
  5.12a
Awesome route, guys! Has anyone repeated this route recently? Jun 17, 2018
Shaun Reed
Santa Barbara
  5.12a
Shaun Reed   Santa Barbara
  5.12a
As far as I know, nobody else has done this route. It could be open for a third ascent. It took me a couple exciting tries on lead, falling on nuts in virgin Eldo rock. It made me think of what the first ascentionists must have experienced, especially when one nut tracked down an inch before holding. Luckily, you can get a few nuts in before the crux with a bolt far below that would keep you off the ground. Jun 29, 2018
Adam Brink
on the road
  5.12-
Adam Brink   on the road
  5.12-
Instant classic! 5.11+ sport to 5.12 finger crack. Hard for 12a in Eldo. Aug 26, 2018