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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Christian Griffith 80s
Page Views: 4,321 total, 21/month
Shared By: slevin on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Paris Girl defines the early 1980s approach to bolting in Eldo: enough to keep you from decking, and no more (although if you blow a clip on this one...). It is an excellent and difficult face climb with significant whipper potential. The scene of much controversy after it was put up (it was the first Eldo climb protected exclusively by rap-placed bolts), the recent vandalism of several hangers (all now replaced) suggests it is still a flashpoint in the tedious Boulder "bolt wars".

PG takes the obvious bolted line on the steep and blank wall right of Disappearing Act, just beyond Darkness 'til Dawn. Take a deep breath, then punch it on unprotected and difficult climbing to the first bolt (dangerous). The crux starts here: a series of crimpy moves up and right past the 2nd bolt to a long reach with whipper potential. The holds are crispy, and some rock deterioration has occurred, making the climbing closer to 5.13a then 5.12d...for example, PG is harder than The Sacred and the Profane on Peanuts, rated 12d/13a in the current Eldo guide. After the crux the climbing eases slightly, passing a bulging 5.12 section, then the micro-edge slab above (5.12a at the start) to a big runout on 5.11a climbing and the anchors.

A workable strategy here is to warmup on Disappearing Act, then set a TR (two ropes) to work the route before the redpoint attempt. Extra points for those brave enough to jump on it with no rehearsal. A good edging shoe is helpful. Cool, crisp temperatures also help; excessive amounts of coffee prior to your redpoint attempt won't.

2 ropes to rappel!

Protection

QDs only.

Photos

steph johnson
Roanoke (DENTON)
steph johnson   Roanoke (DENTON)
Rap bolted run out routes? Is it run out and sparsely equipped because there are no stances from which to clip or did Christian just want a heady route? Either way... love the games climbers play. Apr 8, 2016
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Does anyone have links to video and/or photo-beta for the crux section of PG? The only sequence that we found yesterday seemed pretty hard for 13a. Nov 6, 2013
Say - have any of you read Jim Beyer's rant in Alpinist 8 about Paris Girl? He claims that it was chipped. Anybody know of the truth or lie behind that? Feb 12, 2005
For the record, it is Paris Girl, not "Girls," named after a specific 13-year-old Lolita-ish Parisian in rollerskates photographed by Charlie Fowler beneath the Eiffel Tower. The photo was later shown to the impressionable and imaginative first ascenscionist, who was hopelessly smitten. Feb 4, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I'd just like to add that Steve Levin, although I've never met him, has certainly the most impressive list of contributions to the site. Any climber who completes even a fraction of these routes really has his or her act together. Jul 24, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Background: In May of 2001, a flyer popped up at Neptune's saying ...._500 reward from ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) "to anyone who provide evidence that leads to the arrest or conviction of the person or persons who vandalized and sabotaged the bolts on Paris Girls."

I don't know if they ever caught the idiot who did this. Jul 16, 2001