Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||J. Erikson, 1973|
|Page Views:||436 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on May 7, 2019|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The route starts up some "blah" rock on easy moves in a corner then reaches solid stone under a left-leaning roof with a hand and fist crack. Scrunch up under that roof, and head left for a body length or so, teetering on thin feet and reaching around the corner to move up past the lip and onto a ledge with a tree and fixed anchor.
Between these routes lies The Roof Wall, which starts to the right of a left-rising ramp below a reasonably-sized slab of good rock. To the right of this left-rising slab, a shallow, right-rising trough ascends up and right 30' to a dirty corner below a ledge with a large pine tree above.
Under this ledge, an obvious jagged hand-to-fist crack cuts its way under the roof out and left, presenting some surprisingly fun and engaging climbing to reach the ledge. This is the climb.
One can continue up on The Roof Wall for 3 more pitches to the top of the wall or stop here, retreat from the fixed anchor, and head up something else.