Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: J. Erikson, 1973
Page Views: 77 total · 57/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 7, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route has good and interesting climbing with a little poor rock down low. No less, it is pretty good climbing and certainly will not have anyone on it. This is the route for shorter climbers to suggest to taller partners for grins and giggles. Tall climbers, beware, and get ready to kiss your kneecaps!

The route starts up some "blah" rock on easy moves in a corner then reaches solid stone under a left-leaning roof with a hand and fist crack. Scrunch up under that roof, and head left for a body length or so, teetering on thin feet and reaching around the corner to move up past the lip and onto a ledge with a tree and fixed anchor.

Location

This climb is located high up Redgarden on the Hot Spur. Approach as for Sunstar, passing The Grand Course and Disappearing Act, then continue just past the obvious chimney of Sunstar, as if heading to Northumberland Crack or The Hot Spur.

Between these routes lies The Roof Wall, which starts to the right of a left-rising ramp below a reasonably-sized slab of good rock. To the right of this left-rising slab, a shallow, right-rising trough ascends up and right 30' to a dirty corner below a ledge with a large pine tree above.

Under this ledge, an obvious jagged hand-to-fist crack cuts its way under the roof out and left, presenting some surprisingly fun and engaging climbing to reach the ledge. This is the climb.

One can continue up on The Roof Wall for 3 more pitches to the top of the wall or stop here, retreat from the fixed anchor, and head up something else.

Protection

A few hand and fist-sized cams and some slings.

Photos

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