Type: Trad
FA: Jim and Dave Erickson, 1972
Page Views: 1,958 total · 7/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Don't do this route.

As a moderate lead, it fails on two distinct counts. 1) Loose Rock, dangerous to both climber and belayer. 2) A runout third pitch, the last pitch up the "huge dihedral." I felt a 40+ foot fall was definitely possible.

The first pitch, as Rossiter says, ascends "indistinct terrain" and is characterized by loose rock. We were hoping for 3 solid pitches in the 5.7 dihedral. Yes, there were some good moves, especially on the bulges in the 2nd pitch, but the runout 3rd and the additional loose rock in the 4th pitch made this an unappealing climb.

Note that trees are everywhere, and you could wrap off this at any point with a single rope.

Protection Suggest change

Up to a #4.5 Camalot. A couple of double length slings are helpful on the first, wandering pitch.