Type: Trad
FA: Jim and Dave Erickson, 1972
Page Views: 1,032 total · 5/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Don't do this route.

As a moderate lead, it fails on two distinct counts. 1) Loose Rock, dangerous to both climber and belayer. 2) A runout third pitch, the last pitch up the "huge dihedral." I felt a 40+ foot fall was definitely possible.

The first pitch, as Rossiter says, ascends "indistinct terrain" and is characterized by loose rock. We were hoping for 3 solid pitches in the 5.7 dihedral. Yes, there were some good moves, especially on the bulges in the 2nd pitch, but the runout 3rd and the additional loose rock in the 4th pitch made this an unappealing climb.

Note that trees are everywhere, and you could wrap off this at any point with a single rope.

Protection

Up to a #4.5 Camalot. A couple of double length slings are helpful on the first, wandering pitch.

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Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
Where is this route? There's a lot of "indistinct terrain" on the Redgarden Wall... Oct 18, 2001
pete cogan
  5.7
pete cogan  
  5.7
Where is the route? You can't miss Sunstar, which is just to the right. The chimney and chockstone are obvious. To get on Lost in Space, go just to the L in the funky, inset chimney, or you can go 20 or 30 feet further L, which I didn't do. Once you are at the first belay, you are looking up at that massive dihedral. Oct 29, 2001
Funny. Rossiter also describes a last-pitch variation to Outer Space that he calls Lost in Space. A direct linkup from OS to upper Redgarden would be an impressive send. Oct 30, 2001
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This is actually a decent route if done by the best line. Here's how we did it on a warm and windy January day:

Start: At the chimney/corner just left of Disappearing Act.

p1. 5.7 115': Climb the chimney and corner up to the tree atop Disappearing Act (rap slings and rings on the tree).

p2. 5.8 180': Climb past a loose ledge to a corner system. Continue past several bulges to a V-corner. Climb the corner, with some sections of slightly runout pro, grass, and lichen, to a ledge.

p3. 5.7 60': Climb up the face to the left, then work right to the corner, and climb past a bulge to a tree at the top. Watch for loose rock.

Descent: It's possible to rappel, but better to do the standard west face descent (same as for Green Spur, Rewritten, etc.).

Done this way, the climb is fun and worth at least one star. Some slightly runout climbing on the second pitch and some loose rock on the third pitch, but lots of good climbing along the way.

Pro: standard rack to #4 (C4) Camalot. Jan 6, 2006
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
I just did this one 3/25/08 and I agree with Ron's description of the climb. This is a fun climb, worth more than a star, maybe 2-3 IMHO.

There is some loose rock on the first pitch. My partner (a careful climber) knocked one down towards me by accident. But this is to be expected when climbing in the mountains. Redgarden Wall isn't supposed to be a roadside, bouldering park.

The V-dihedral has some grass in it and it's definitely an 8 there.

The walk off left is easy. No reason to rap this route.

It was 65-70s this March afternoon, and it felt downright hot on the rock. Definitely doable in winter. Mar 27, 2008