Avg: 1.5 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Culp and Stan Shepard, 1961|
|Page Views:||2,932 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin Currigan on Jul 31, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
P1 - Just a bit uphill from there a crack diagonals up and to the left with a small pine just a few moves away. Climb straight up (awkward but easy) to gain a second crack and follow this a bit left then up. Supposedly, there is a chimney in the area but we never spotted one. The closest being a wedge-shaped corner. Just to the left a 12'-15' vertical crack provided a couple fun (5.7?) moves up to a ledge and the belay. It is probably 100' of 5.5-5.6 overall.
P2 - This pitch started with another short vertical section followed by 3rd/4th class for another 150' up a loose and rocky ramp. This gully is so loose it is impossible not to launch a rock or two. Be certain to position your belay with this in mind. In addition, try setting some occasional high pro to keep the rope up. As you reach the top of the gully the rock firms up and rises in a series of aretes. Set the belay as soon as the rock will take it.
P3 - The last pitch is described by Rossiter as "a slightly overhanging, left facing corner". Pick your way to the top. Although the rock is still questionable, there are some interesting lines. We chose a broken crack up a less than vertical face. The rock got bad and my leader dropped into the gully to finish the lead (5.5 into 4th). Seconding, I cleaned the first half then climbed back down and onto the arete-vaguely reminiscent of Icarus/Yellow Spur.