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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Skip Guerin & Bob Horan FFA, 1981
Page Views: 5,177 total, 27/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Nov 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This excellent route is just to the right of The Grand Course on the West Ridge of Redgarden. It has two pitches, but it is better to do the first pitch of Silver Raven followed by the 11a pitch of Grand Course.

Climb up the chimney on the right for about twenty feet. Place nuts out left from an insecure position and then traverse into the crux. Fire that, then get ready for a burly, awkward section just afterward (llb) to a much appreciated stance. Easier finger jams lead to a belay ledge where you are required to build your own anchor. David A. Turner

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with Aliens.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Very sustained route. Pumpy to place gear. Really fun moves. This route rewards going for it. The long crux sequence from stemming into the thin corner to pulling around the roof is all of 11+ to onsight with only one decent place to stop and shake, and the tips corner above that stays pretty sustained with no moves easier than 10+/11-.

To climb the original route, continue up the El Matador-style double stemming corner. Good gear can be had in the upper right side. Pull up and out the right side on hand jams and jugs out a bulge into a flaring handcrack that takes small gear if you feel like placing it. The bolted anchors are just above.

A good rack for this route would be:
A few medium sized brass offsets
1-2 sets of nuts from #4 to #7 size stoppers
2-3 sets purple to yellow Mastercams or blue to yellow Aliens
2 BD 0.75 C4
1 BD 2 C4
A bunch of quickdraws and slings. Mar 12, 2017
craigw
 
craigw  
 
As previously stated, this climb rules. You can get a good small cam (I used the 0.4 grey Camalot) way out left and around the corner from the main dihedral. You place it after you make the first move above the fixed cam from a good right hand hold. It's kind of a blind placement, but you can eye it up from the ground. Getting this piece allows you to punch through the crux section and not have to place pumpy gear. Jun 28, 2013
Rainbow Weinstock
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Rainbow Weinstock   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Great climb! A couple of solid nuts (large RP and similarly sized nut) placed together right above the rusty old grey TCU took a lot of the hazard out of the climb for me. I did a few moves on the arete and then got a solid 0.4 Camalot jammed into the back of the slot on the right hand side. A 70m is very useful to have for this and Grand Course unless you want to play a lot of games getting people on and off of the ledge 30' above the ground. Jun 7, 2013
Ben Walburn
  5.11c PG13
Ben Walburn  
  5.11c PG13
Spectacular route! The gear is tricky down low, but it is there. I felt like this was easier than other 11+ routes in the canyon. I give it 11c PG-13. At the top, I finished on the right set of anchors, not the Grand Course anchors. This allows for lowering to the pinnacle with a 60m cord. There are now bolted anchors on this route. Mar 20, 2011
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best! Jul 30, 2006
Brad Bond
  5.11d
Brad Bond  
  5.11d
I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow! May 19, 2004
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
The slot that Steve D. mentions at the crux of the Grand Course takes a perfect 3.5 Camalot. Feb 12, 2002
IF YOU DON'T WANT WAY TOO MUCH BETA DON'T READ THIS

I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL.

SILVER RAVEN is a great route-have fun. Nov 28, 2001
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch? Nov 26, 2001