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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: M. Brooks, J Stuberg, C Coy, 1981
Page Views: 931 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route lies near the very top-end of Redgarden Wall. In fact, it is very near Crag X and the Hypothermia area, where Redgarden merges into the Rincon Area at the Potato Chip.

Approach via the Redgarden Wall trail going all of the way to the top at the LAST clear switchback. This is where the uppermost branch of the walkoff trail hits the ground. There is a small crag just NW of this point, with a few left leaning crack systems running up from its right hand side to the summit. At the lowest right hand edge of this crag is a ~4" diameter Juniper tree, and 8' left of that is a ~10" short-needled pine. A thin crack rises from the ground ~3' left of the tree, in spots this opens to 2" and in spots is is barely a seam.

Climb up the leaning crack towards the top- the crux is after perhaps 20' and over a decent #1 Camalot. Footwork on small holds and finger strength for key sidepulls and pinches are the keys to making this route go. As you go upward beyond 30 feet, the route gets easier. Perhaps 5 feet from the top the crack gets nasty- step left 5' to the next line and ride it for an additional 15 feet to the top of the crag. Walk back a ways from the edge and set an anchor and place your rope so as not to knock off anything loose (this was done on a #3 Camalot and a huge stopper on the FA).

To descend, walk up and to the climber's left past some death blocks and under the low branches of a few trees to reach the Redgarden walk-off trail again. (3 min)

I'll place some pictures up when I get my slides developed and scanned in.

Protection

1 set of nuts including small RPs or BD copper-steels + a few small tricams and TCU's + One 2-2.5" Friend. The pro is thin and not usually quite where you'd like to have it. Some of the pieces are poor near insecure moves. A groundfall should be really unlikely, but the route is heady.
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.10
Fun, but way harder than it looks! It's hard to smear on lichen I guess....

Oh yeah, save a #3 for the top out. Apr 20, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b PG13
This pitch does not deserve an "R" rating as long as you have RPs and small cams such as C3s. A fun pitch that I thought was mid 5.10 for a move or two. Apr 20, 2011