Avg: 1.8 from 183 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Layton Kor and Ben Childlaw, 1958|
|Page Views:||8,275 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on May 7, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Start at the deep chimney about 10' right of Great Zot. Climb the chimney, passing some fixed pins and an intermediate bolted rappel station, to a belay at a tree just below the Red Ledge (160 ft) or a tree at the base of Swanson Arete on the Red Ledge (205ft).
The upper pitches continue up the chimney/gully to the notch north of Lumpe Tower, but these are seldom climbed. If you do go to the top, descend back to Red Ledge by rappelling from trees; be careful of loose rock.
The first pitch of this route is commonly used to descend from the Red Ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall of the chimney just below the Red Ledge (about 130' up), and a second two-bolt anchor about 70' up. Two rappels with a 50m or 60m rope get you down. It's possible to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope with a little bit of downclimbing at the end.
It's best to avoid climbing this route when parties are rappelling, unless you want to get brained by a tossed rope.