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Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Chris Cross T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grand Course, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Sleeves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbits From Hats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zot Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Layton Kor and Ben Childlaw, 1958
Page Views: 5,886 total, 42/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The climbing on this pitch is surprisingly good. It can be used as an alternate start to Rewritten, Great Zot, Swanson Arete, Dirty Deed, or Icarus. It's a good way to get to the Red Ledge if the first pitches of Great Zot and Rewritten are busy.

Start at the deep chimney about 10' right of Great Zot. Climb the chimney, passing some fixed pins and an intermediate bolted rappel station, to a belay at a tree just below the Red Ledge (160 ft) or a tree at the base of Swanson Arete on the Red Ledge (205ft).

The upper pitches continue up the chimney/gully to the notch north of Lumpe Tower, but these are seldom climbed. If you do go to the top, descend back to Red Ledge by rappelling from trees; be careful of loose rock.

The first pitch of this route is commonly used to descend from the Red Ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall of the chimney just below the Red Ledge (about 130' up), and a second two-bolt anchor about 70' up. Two rappels with a 50m or 60m rope get you down. It's possible to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope with a little bit of downclimbing at the end.

It's best to avoid climbing this route when parties are rappelling, unless you want to get brained by a tossed rope.

Protection

Standard rack.
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
This pitch was great....

I led it this morning, as my first trad lead in far too long. I'm not sure if it was the rope drag speaking, but I think 5.6 is a fair rating for this. The moves exiting the chimney feel stout, especially when you aren't totally confident in your ability to place pro.

I like that the crack swallows pro for the most part: I encountered two fixed pins and two "fixed" nuts. The climbing had good variety, and altogether, this was a great intro to leading at Eldo. Jul 13, 2017
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.6
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.6
Climbed this with my son for Father's Day 2017.

I'm not a great fan of chimneys, but still an OK climb. If you do like chimneying, you will like this route.

Rewritten and Great Zot had climbers lined up and competing for belay space, so we climbed pitch 1 of West Chimney to get to the Red Ledge (to climb Swanson's Arete).

My son did a great job leading this & I found the route harder (and a bit sketchy in spots) than I expected, but this is probably because we rarely climb big chimneys. I traversed over and climbed about 20 feet of Great Zot & felt it was much easier.

Swanson's was pretty mellow after the approach. I had knee replacement surgery 3 months ago and haven't climbed in ages, so I wanted to climb something easy but long, & it was a fun outing overall. Jun 19, 2017
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
There is also a TV-sized block at the east end of Red Ledge. Probably just a matter of time before it goes down the West Chimney. Jul 30, 2012
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Found some gear by the little tree at the top of the chimney. Anyone lose something? Aug 29, 2011
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
I climbed this as the "approach" to Swanson's arête and found it a good way to approach at a grade similar to that of Swanson's. Good climbing, good enough pro and a fun but too short section of chimneying. Leading it with a pack isn't too bad as you can just clip it to your harness for the 5 feet of chimneying. I made it all the way to the Red Ledge right below Swanson's Arête in one pitch with double 60m ropes. I think my belayer climbed up a few feet to accomodate this....

I can see why people are calling it 5.5. I feel like it might be an unsustained 5.6, but you can decide for yourself.

I gave it two stars as it is not sustained and there is minimal actual chimneying on it.

Enjoy!! Jul 22, 2011
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.5
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.5
I actually thought this was a fun chimney. I lead it today as the first pitch of Swanson's Arete and I would say is was no harder than the rest of the route which goes at 5.5. There is some loose rock, but not too much and it does take pro well (there are also two solid looking pitons along the way and 2 sets of bolts for rappels along with plenty of cracks).

That being said I only gave it one star because of the risk factor. DO NOT climb this route if anyone is rappelling from above. The chimney continues all the way to the top and doubles as the rappel route to get off the top (as an alternative to the walk down). There was no one below us or in the vicinity so we rapped down. On the second rap, pulling the ropes dislodges one of the many loose rocks in the upper chimney and it went crashing all the way down. I was trying to be really careful and there was no one below us, but seeing the rock shatter in after dropping 50 feet into the chimney made me decide never to climb that route if there was any chance of anyone rappelling above. Jul 24, 2008
Kevin Craig  
 
A much better pitch than it's generally given credit for. As noted, more like a technical mountaineering pitch, and there's some real-by-god chimney climbing at the top that's thoughtful and fun. Also as noted, the gear is not plentiful, but I've never felt too badly run out. I think Rossiter's guide gives this a 5.5, but maybe a bit harder. Mar 26, 2007
Jo Holloway  
 
As per Mark Nelson's comment, this route lost a grade of difficulty for me from the time I climbed it with a camelback (what was I thinking?!) Sep 6, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.5
Buff Johnson  
  5.5
Agree w/ Ron in the route description. There is a variety of climbing offered on this (first long) pitch providing good practice in shifting balance as you stem. The finish chimney section (best part of the first pitch) offers a large nut placement then to a friendly foot ledge & fun chimney to bolts. I would offer that this is a hard technical mountaineering-type pitch. It is quite fun but generally underrated in relation of being a good climb because of its neighbors.

Difficult to climb this with a pack or camelback, this (first) pitch is fairly cleaned of loose rock, but be mindful that a rock will fall on everyone staging for the other climbs (& also where your belayer is standing). I generally get an early start to try and avoid any mishaps when climbing this feature. May 8, 2006