Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Layton Kor and Ben Childlaw, 1958
Page Views: 9,392 total · 43/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The climbing on this pitch is surprisingly good. It can be used as an alternate start to Rewritten, Great Zot, Swanson Arete, Dirty Deed, or Icarus. It's a good way to get to the Red Ledge if the first pitches of Great Zot and Rewritten are busy.

Start at the deep chimney about 10' right of Great Zot. Climb the chimney, passing some fixed pins and an intermediate bolted rappel station, to a belay at a tree just below the Red Ledge (160 ft) or a tree at the base of Swanson Arete on the Red Ledge (205ft).

The upper pitches continue up the chimney/gully to the notch north of Lumpe Tower, but these are seldom climbed. If you do go to the top, descend back to Red Ledge by rappelling from trees; be careful of loose rock.

The first pitch of this route is commonly used to descend from the Red Ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall of the chimney just below the Red Ledge (about 130' up), and a second two-bolt anchor about 70' up. Two rappels with a 50m or 60m rope get you down. It's possible to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope with a little bit of downclimbing at the end.

It's best to avoid climbing this route when parties are rappelling, unless you want to get brained by a tossed rope.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.