Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Stan Shepard, et al. 1960
Page Views: 46,727 total · 165/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a beginner classic. This was named in memory of Jon Swanson who was killed descending Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks in 1968.

There are many ways to start this climb.

Option 1: Start as for Rewritten, but after P1, traverse up to the Red Ledge to the right. Find a tree to the right of the West Chimney and belay from here. 5.7 PG-13.

Option 2: Do the West Chimney passing a 2 bolt intermediate anchor and continue up to either the 2 bolt 2nd anchor (50m) or continue up to the tree (60m). 5.6.

Option 3: Do the 1st pitch of Great Zot, 5.8+.

P1. Follow the arete on the right side. Note, the start is a bit loose in places. There is a easier-than-it-looks slot with holds in the back (crux). You can belay on the left side of the arete at a tree.

P2. Continue up to the right of the arete, passing a slot with a tree or along the arete (5.6 R). Move up into a left-facing dihedral (crux) with a thin crack protectable with wires to a tree.

P3. Continue up on airy but blocky holds. Skirt the roof to the right and finish up the dihedral to the summit.

DESCENT (multiple options):

Option 1: Downclimb (S) to the notch in between Lumpe Tower and Tower One and make 3 double rope raps--or downclimb to the East side of Redgarden.

Option 2: Downclimb to the tree just below the summit. Three 2 rope rappels off the tree, off another large tree with a rope (left of Dirty Deed), and another off a large tree on the Red Ledge gets you down.

Option 3: traverse off to the west along the ridge (lengthy and involves some exposed climbing/scrambling) to the gully descent near the top of Redgarden Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack--double ropes, or an extra rope for raps on descent. Be careful of loose rocks on the ledges of this rap, known as the "Dirty Deed" rappel.