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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.

This section of Redgarden Wall includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One & Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.

While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks.

Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a.

One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.

There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 2
Razors to Rubble
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Doris Gets Her Oats
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 4
Heddie La Rue
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Maverick
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
The Hot Spur
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 0
Piece of the Sun
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 0
Controlled Burn
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 0
Hot Links
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 9
Waiting Room
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Northumberland Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 1
For Whom the Bell Tolls
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 1
The Miller- Light Deviation
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
The Roof Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 10
Lost in Space
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 33
Sunstar
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Abracadabra
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Rabbits From Hats
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 97
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite)
Trad 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
 5
Paris Girl
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 130
The Grand Course
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 41
Silver Raven
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 5
Culp-Raubach Finish
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
Green Slab Direct
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Green Slab-Original Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 333
Darkness 'til Dawn
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Chris Cross
Trad, TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
 2
The Color of Pomegranates
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Sayat-Nova
Sport
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
 1
Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time)
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
Spur of the Moment
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 249
Grandmother's Challenge
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 9
Green Sleeves
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 1
Burning Chrome
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 467
The Green Spur
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 4
The Green Hornet
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 3
Tower Corner Exit
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,158
Rewritten
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 352
Rebuffat's Arete
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
The Zot Face
Trad 6 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Direct Variation to Zot Face
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 248
The Great Zot
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
The Great Zot Variation A.
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 140
West Chimney
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 331
Swanson Arete
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 1
Warm and Fuzzy
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Cinders And Saints
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Fanning the Flame
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 2
Burning Desire
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Dream Weaver
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Noodle Salad
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
The Everybody Route
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Please Close Lid
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Razors to Rubble
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Doris Gets Her Oats
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Heddie La Rue
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Maverick
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
The Hot Spur
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Piece of the Sun
 0
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Controlled Burn
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Hot Links
 0
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
Waiting Room
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Northumberland Crack
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
For Whom the Bell Tolls
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches
The Miller- Light Deviation
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 4 pitches
Alternate Erikson Start (Ro…
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
The Roof Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Lost in Space
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Sunstar
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Abracadabra
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Rabbits From Hats
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Disappearing Act (aka Krypt…
 97
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Paris Girl
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Sport
The Grand Course
 130
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Silver Raven
 41
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Culp-Raubach Finish
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Green Slab Direct
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Green Slab-Original Route
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Unknown left of Darkness 't…
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Darkness 'til Dawn
 333
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chris Cross
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
The Color of Pomegranates
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R Trad
Sayat-Nova
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Twist and Crawl (aka Slice…
 1
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b Sport
Spur of the Moment
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Grandmother's Challenge
 249
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Green Sleeves
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Burning Chrome
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
The Green Spur
 467
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Green Hornet
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Tower Corner Exit
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Rewritten
 1,158
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Rebuffat's Arete
 352
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Zot Face
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Direct Variation to Zot Face
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
The Great Zot
 248
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
The Great Zot Variation A.
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
West Chimney
 140
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Swanson Arete
 331
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Warm and Fuzzy
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Cinders And Saints
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Fanning the Flame
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Burning Desire
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Dream Weaver
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Noodle Salad
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
The Everybody Route
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Please Close Lid
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.
Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Space) looms this massive chunk-o-death.
[Hide Photo] Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Space) looms this massive chunk-o-death.
Getting down from Lumpe Tower and Tower One
[Hide Photo] Getting down from Lumpe Tower and Tower One
Getting down from Green Spur and Hot Spur
[Hide Photo] Getting down from Green Spur and Hot Spur
Another Sunday in Eldorado.  How many ropes can you see in this photo?
[Hide Photo] Another Sunday in Eldorado. How many ropes can you see in this photo?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Anyone up there on 8/6/2 Tuesday that know where that huge boulder came from that fell off somewhere up hill from Great Zot? Sunstar? GC? Green Spur? The trail? Aug 7, 2002