Avg: 1.2 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Teena Wells and Ron Akin, 1981|
|Page Views:||1,954 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Oct 25, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
It begins only 30' right of the start of the Yellow Spur. Climb a large tree to the lip of an overhang (slings around branches if you want pro). The top of this tree has been beaten down by the traffic and the move getting onto the rock has been getting harder (I'm 6'0", and I'd rate it 5.9 or even harder if you are much shorter). Fortunately, you can place some decent pro in the rock before stepping off the tree (hands just above the overhang). Do not attempt this climb if it is windy.
After the difficult moves over the overhang, head up and left to belay at a tree. The second pitch (nice) follows the same crack system for 50' to a ledge, then continue up parallel cracks (5.9) to a belay. The third pitch climbs a rotten and somewhat unprotected face over a bulge (you can get in more than the #0 RP mentioned by Rossiter), then traverse right to the Upper Ramp.
If you still haven't gotten your fill of tree hugging, head on up E.L.100.