Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m) Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Various Additions
Page Views: 5,321 total · 19/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo).

Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.

Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power). Confused?

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts, optional cam #0.75 Camalot, 2 bolt anchor (60'). The rappel is 50'.


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