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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Various Additions
Page Views: 2,914 total, 14/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo).

Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.

Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power). Confused?

Protection

7 bolts, optional cam #0.75 Camalot, 2 bolt anchor (60'). The rappel is 50'.

Photos

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Did Ignition a couple days ago, probably had been 4-5 years. Heads up with the big, downward pointing flake between the last two bolts - it's WAY more expando with a nice vibrato than it used to be. I would no longer recommend putting ANY cam or nut in either side of it and only pull down, not out! Just sayin'! Just left of the bottom of the flake is a so-so horizontal med. nut placement but...just don't fall before the last bolt and tread lightly. Sep 29, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouchables" finished. I first led the 5.10 run-out off gear but was very concerned that a fall would break the flake the medium stopper was behind. Charlie Fowler established the first 4 bolts (crux) of the route in 1987 but finished by traversing right to finish up the first pitch of the "Yellow Spur".

I also replaced the anchor & several of the bolts in the late 1990s with Rick Leitner. The remaining 4th & last bolts have since been replaced by someone else. The 1st bolt is still an original bolt & seem quite safe.

I place #6 & 7 stoppers in the same vertical slot 6 feet below the last bolt. This climb would be terrifying without placing gear here.

I think this climb definitely deserves a 5.12a rating. Compare it to so many other Front Range climbs of this grade. The crux at 2nd bolt is technical & thin. Then the climb is sustained & pumpy all the way to the anchor. Lastly, the climb's 2nd pitch (5.10+ trad) is rarely done. Dec 5, 2013
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt. Oct 28, 2008
Chris Archer
  5.12a
Chris Archer  
  5.12a
Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do. Mar 15, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained for only 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but it is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement. Sep 15, 2003