Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s
Page Views: 4,264 total, 22/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.

At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.

Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).

Protection

QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12a PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12a PG13
Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact "right" moment. I stopped upside down seven feet above the ground unscathed but shaken.

There is a friable tin-sounding critical hold in the opening .10c section that will break someday - not if but when. In addition, the entire flake you're climbing up is hollow. An additional bolt at the start mid-flake height would be a welcome addition. Nov 20, 2016
Moritz B.
  5.12
Moritz B.  
  5.12
You can protect the start moves with a 0.5 down low and a red DMM alloy offset before the crux. Nov 11, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Thanks, Matt and Greg, for replacing/reusing the bolts on this route. Much appreciated. Dec 8, 2014
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Hardware update for P2: two more welded-shuts on the P2 face have been upgraded to 1/2" x 3" Stainless Power-bolts with Stainless hangers. One welded-shut remains under the roof on P2. We'll upgrade it sooner or later. Mar 29, 2014
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.12a
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.12a
Mandatory stick clip or don't fall it will hurt. Third bolt is hard to clip for short peeps. Good route. The bashy is kinda a joke should be replaced, easy ground I guess Eldo people would say. Feb 28, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a
The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing. Jan 5, 2013
slevin  
According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc." Sep 3, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate. Feb 2, 2006
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86. Mar 15, 2004
It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad. May 1, 2002