Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s
Page Views: 4,672 total · 22/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.

At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.

Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).

Protection

QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).

Photos

It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad. May 1, 2002
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86. Mar 15, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate. Feb 2, 2006
slevin  
According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc." Sep 3, 2007
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a
The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing. Jan 5, 2013
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.12a
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.12a
Mandatory stick clip or don't fall it will hurt. Third bolt is hard to clip for short peeps. Good route. The bashy is kinda a joke should be replaced, easy ground I guess Eldo people would say. Feb 28, 2014
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Hardware update for P2: two more welded-shuts on the P2 face have been upgraded to 1/2" x 3" Stainless Power-bolts with Stainless hangers. One welded-shut remains under the roof on P2. We'll upgrade it sooner or later. Mar 29, 2014
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Thanks, Matt and Greg, for replacing/reusing the bolts on this route. Much appreciated. Dec 8, 2014
Moritz B.
  5.12
Moritz B.  
  5.12
You can protect the start moves with a 0.5 down low and a red DMM alloy offset before the crux. Nov 11, 2015
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12a PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12a PG13
Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact "right" moment. I stopped upside down seven feet above the ground unscathed but shaken.

There is a friable tin-sounding critical hold in the opening .10c section that will break someday - not if but when. In addition, the entire flake you're climbing up is hollow. An additional bolt at the start mid-flake height would be a welcome addition. Nov 20, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b PG13
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b PG13
In 1993, I replaced the original 1/4" diameter short bolts on this route. The crux bolt had already been replaced. Thus, this climb was no longer scary & dangerous, other than the start. In 1994, I applied for a permit to add a two bolt anchor on the ledge above the last bolt. This would allow for a long pitch with a convenient lower-off, rather than climb all the way to the large tree & rappel with two ropes. The Fixed Hardware Review Committee denied the permit. Bummer. I still think it would be a great idea. To finish from the ledge, there are at least a couple options. Climb directly up a very thin crack requiring a fair bit of small gear. I haven't gone this way, so I don't know the grade or details. I traversed right on the ledge & wandered up easy climbing to reach the big ledge with the tree. The tree sits back a way from the edge. Dec 31, 2018
I found this climb to be hella hard. I couldn't free it. Felt much harder than 12a. Jan 6, 2019