Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s
Page Views: 6,725 total · 25/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.

At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.

Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).

Protection Suggest change

QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).