Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Eric Johnson, Todd Felix
Page Views: 3,028 total · 25/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent vertical outing up a beautiful section of the cliff. First envisioned as a headpoint, this route is destined to become a neo-classic with the addition of bolts.

Location Suggest change

Begin with the traditional 1st pitch of Vertigo (5.9). Where the second pitch begins to steepen, place a good cam and head out and up to the bolt on the right. Four more bolts with a few optional pieces of gear lead to a horizontal. Either traverse left to the Vertigo ledge belay or bust 5.10 moves through the small roof(or step right then back left) and clip the first bolt on the last pitch of the Doub-Griffith. Proceed to summit on this climb. You get bonus points for finishing on the new Schlauch Direct, 5.12a, 2 bolts on the arete. It is a mega 70m pitch!

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts plus a standard Eldo rack. A 0.5 tri-cam is perfect in a pocket between 3rd and 4th bolt. A #4 cam is also nice to have at the horizontal break at the top.


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