Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Larry and Roger Dalke, 1968, FFA: Wunsch, Bragg, 1975. Roof seam finish: 5.12a, Micheals, Sonnefield, 1986.
Page Views: 4,428 total · 36/month
Shared By: bhoran Horan on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.

P1. At a northwestern point of the Upper Ramp, climb over a roof to a dihedral, 5.9, leading to a belay below the prominent apex roof.

P2. Climb up and through the steep apex of the roof, 5.11d, to a slab belay above.

P3. Climb over the next roof system, 5.11c,and up to the top of the dihedral and belay.

P4. Climb up to the next large roof with a thin crack splitting it. Climb out left, 5.9, under the roof, and connect with the last pitch of The Yellow Spur. Climb out the thin crack in the roof at 5.12a, via bolts, for added difficulty.


This climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.


Full rack and some bolts.


Scott Bennett
Scott Bennett   Michigan
Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness.

This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot.

There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, but P2 is also very good and interesting. It gets hard right off the belay, fortunately there are a few fixed pins here. After clipping the last pin, one can go straight up into the corner; this looked hard. We reached out right to some great huecos and pulled over the roof this way. After the roof, this pitch gets much easier (5.9ish), but the protection is small and well spaced.

I would be interested in trying the 12a seam variation for the last pitch, but we were scared off by the rotten looking bolts (1/4" buttonheads w/ Leeper hangers?). I don't know anything about replacing bolts- do you have to apply for permission with the park? If anyone with knowledge and experience wants to get up there and put some good hardware in, feel free to send me an email and I'll come out and help.
-Scott Mar 4, 2009
Scott Bennett
Scott Bennett   Michigan
Replaced the bolts on the final pitch today. Thanks to Josh Thompson for the expertise and ASCA for the hardware. Dec 2, 2010
Ben Walburn
  5.12- PG13
Ben Walburn  
  5.12- PG13
Thanks for the work, Scott. Dec 18, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Double thanks on the work, Scott! Dec 20, 2010
Ben Walburn
  5.12- PG13
Ben Walburn  
  5.12- PG13
After years of looking at the striking giant roofs and headwall, my friend Cody and I climbed this mega classic yesterday. Again I would like to thank Scott B. for replacing those bolts as the headwall pitch is not to be missed, especially now that the hardware was updated.

The pins in the roofs are good. The "anchor" atop the first pitch is so-so, but like Scott said, you can back it up. If you're not pumped silly, keep going through the next roof. You will find an upward-pointing flake to sling (there were two slings on it already) and just to the right is a shallow but good crack for a natural anchor (sizes in the 0.3 range/yellow Aliens). The 5.9 section is a little run out to get started, but adequate gear is found a little further up.

Splitting this in two pitches is the way to go. P1) through both roofs; P2) the 5.9 section/the 12a headwall/ to the top. May 11, 2011
Thank you for the retro bolting. It would be nice to have the old bolts removed. Currently there are 2 bolts side by side. Apr 16, 2012
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
Jesse, let's get this straight. What I am hearing is that the old bolts were chopped (i.e. heads sawed off) and new holes drilled and new bolts put in next to the chopped ones? Apr 17, 2012
Joseph... the current situation: new bolts next to old bolts. All still in the wall as of Sept. 14 2012. Sep 15, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Added a bomber offset nut to the p1 belay. No need to back it up now, if you choose to belay there. Apr 29, 2015
dameeser   denver
Thank's for updating that anchor, Noah, it looks a lot better than the last time I used it. I would still be worried about belaying off that first pitch anchor though. The nut is in a block that looks nasty, and the pin is well...old. If you still have the juice, you can climb though the next roof and belay at the next stance out right. It has much better gear for an anchor.

You can get an RP at the pitch 3 second roof crux, above the current pin. It's a good piece and protects that crux well. I don't think the pin needs to be replaced.

The old bolts that were next to the new ones are gone now. That crap bashie is also gone. Aug 20, 2016