Avg: 2.7 from 37 votes
Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
|FA:||F.F.A: Wunsch/Erickson 1973|
|Page Views:||4,099 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Collins on Jul 22, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
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Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Begin from the top of the Lower Ramp at the start of Ruper. The climb's 2nd pitch follows the obvious arching dihedral overhead.
P1- Climb the thin crack on the left (5.8, 2 fixed, purple, Metolius cams) or scramble more easily up to the right. Belay in a nice alcove directly below the beautiful, arching dihedral.
P2- Climb up to the dihedral and lieback/undercling up and left (Ruper goes out right at this point), eventually reaching a nice belay ledge at the top of the dihedral. This is a beautiful pitch of 5.9 and makes a good alternate 2nd pitch to Ruper. The first two pitches can probably be linked.
P3- Climb straight up from the belay to a left-trending crack/groove. Climb the crack and face to a decent stance under the roof (10a S). The topo for this section says "no pro", but I was able to get in a couple decent offset nuts. From the roof stance, climb right up the ramp/roof to a hidden bolt. Clip the bolt and make a funky traverse move to better holds (crux). The feet are good in this section but there isn't much in the way of hands. I shudder to think what bizarre fixed mank must have been in place on the FFA. Continue up and right to the Upper Ramp through some runout 5.9 face (watch for loose holds in here).
There are some issues on the 3rd pitch regarding belaying up the second, especially if they aren't solid following 5.11. The climb trends up and right from the crux and there isn't much gear right after this section. Best to leave a long sling on the bolt which the second can unclip AFTER pulling the crux. I also backcleaned my last piece (the only decent gear I found between the crux and the upper ramp) and belayed from an awkward spot almost directly above the crux to minimize swing potential (there is a good nut placement here to belay the second through).
From the upper ramp, continue on Alice in Bucketland, the Serpent, or any of the other adventure climbs that start in that area for an excellent day of climbing.