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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: F.F.A: Wunsch/Erickson 1973
Page Views: 3,213 total, 18/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jul 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is another excellent climb starting from the top of the Lower Ramp. If it weren't sandwiched between so many ultra-classic climbs, it might get 3 stars. Part of this route is covered under the "Roving for Love" route description.

Begin from the top of the Lower Ramp at the start of Ruper. The climb's 2nd pitch follows the obvious arching dihedral overhead.

P1- Climb the thin crack on the left (5.8, 2 fixed, purple, Metolius cams) or scramble more easily up to the right. Belay in a nice alcove directly below the beautiful, arching dihedral.

P2- Climb up to the dihedral and lieback/undercling up and left (Ruper goes out right at this point), eventually reaching a nice belay ledge at the top of the dihedral. This is a beautiful pitch of 5.9 and makes a good alternate 2nd pitch to Ruper. The first two pitches can probably be linked.

P3- Climb straight up from the belay to a left-trending crack/groove. Climb the crack and face to a decent stance under the roof (10a S). The topo for this section says "no pro", but I was able to get in a couple decent offset nuts. From the roof stance, climb right up the ramp/roof to a hidden bolt. Clip the bolt and make a funky traverse move to better holds (crux). The feet are good in this section but there isn't much in the way of hands. I shudder to think what bizarre fixed mank must have been in place on the FFA. Continue up and right to the Upper Ramp through some runout 5.9 face (watch for loose holds in here).

There are some issues on the 3rd pitch regarding belaying up the second, especially if they aren't solid following 5.11. The climb trends up and right from the crux and there isn't much gear right after this section. Best to leave a long sling on the bolt which the second can unclip AFTER pulling the crux. I also backcleaned my last piece (the only decent gear I found between the crux and the upper ramp) and belayed from an awkward spot almost directly above the crux to minimize swing potential (there is a good nut placement here to belay the second through).

From the upper ramp, continue on Alice in Bucketland, the Serpent, or any of the other adventure climbs that start in that area for an excellent day of climbing.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. HB offsets are useful.
7/30/17- P2 dihedral is COVERED in bird shit. Made this otherwise fun pitch not fun at all. Jul 31, 2017
Aaron Ramras
  5.11 R
Aaron Ramras  
  5.11 R
The 3rd pitch is no joke...be solid at the 5.11 grade in Eldo! The follower also needs to be fairly solid, and if I were to go back, I might consider using double ropes. I agree with Scott that there were some good micro-cams for the first 2/3 of the 5.10 runnout. The final bit getting to the roof is pretty thin! The actual roof crux is blind, commiting, and quite counterintuitive. Bad falls are a real possibility here... choose your belayer wisely! I was able to clip the bolt before committing to the crux, but shorties might have a bit more trouble reaching it. The climbing above the roof is fairly dangerous 5.9...watch for loose blocks and flakes...I think overall the pitch warrants an R rating even with the bolt.

This route is a classic example of Eldorado funk...it requires a good bit of creativity and poise to put together an onsight. I think it would make a great pre-requisite to Mellow Yellow on the upper ramp...the style is very similar, but it's a bit easier. Mar 6, 2017
Scott Bennett
  5.11 R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11 R
Some comments on the “3rd” pitch (the 11b roof pitch):
I didn’t think the 5.10 face below the roof was that runout. There’s good gear for the first 2/3rds of it, and then a bit of a runout up to the roof, where great gear can be had. Maybe some persistent and creative nutting could eliminate even this runout.

That said, I did think the crux roof itself was pretty spicy. You need to put long slings on the gear below the roof, so when you’re pulling the crux (which was kinda hard to figure out) you’re facing an awkward fall onto the slab below. I don’t know what’s up with the bolt on this thing, it can’t be clipped until after finishing the crux sequence. There is still some hard climbing after the roof, so I was definitely glad to have the bolt, but if it were further left, it might protect the crux.

Anyways, this is a really good pitch for those feeling good on 5.11.
-Scott Mar 21, 2009
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
 
Get on it...the P2 dihedral is incredible. With footwork and body positioning you can eliminate a great deal of the pump. Dec 16, 2008
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Did the first two pitches of this route with Danny Inman & Schwetty as a single pitch with a 60M up to the bolted belay to bypass the opening pitches of Ruper. Pretty fun and funky climbing. Mar 19, 2007
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I did the dihedral on Sunday as an alternate to the Ruper crack. Pat "Mono Master" Finnegan dragged my ass up the dihedral. He powered through the crux with no problems flexing his prodigious pecs. The bird crap was a little problem under the dihedral and I think we intruded on some bird homes as there was quite a bit of protesting coming from inside the crack. The dihedral itself is great and not a hard .9 compared to say Green Spur or Rosy. Jul 25, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
P.S. The Bird-lime situation is nearly non-existant as of yesterday (5-10-05). Of course, I may not have noticed it because I was concentrating on my feet too much, but then again, maybe you won't either... ~Wm May 11, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
George, I agree with you about the pumpiness of this section. However, there is a pretty nice kneebar after the first little overhang, a perfect time and position for it. This allows the sub-confident leader to rest (I actually got a drink of water, more for the stage than the need), before what I feel is the real "Business" part of this pitch. I absolutely love this pitch and would recommend it to anyone looking for practice routes to break into 5.10 in Eldo. It would likely be a 5.10 anywhere else.... ~Wm May 11, 2005
Almost didn't do pitch 2, following the bird "lime"comments. Turned out that there's only one hold with some poop on it - nothing excessive at all (as ofSaturday 05-22-04).I thought this was a great alternative to p2. of Ruper -definitely a little harder, but way better protected. Not as hard as it looks.I used cams from a red Alien to a blue (#3) Camalot. May 26, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
P2 is an excellent variation for Ruper, but is significantly harder than anything on Ruper (IMHO). The "wide crack" pitch 2 on Ruper is difficult because the crack is too wide to jam, and feels insecure. However compared to the Rover Dihedral, this pitch is pretty low angle. The Rover Dihedral is steep and pumpy, tons of gear can be placed but it will pump you out. Both ways are great fun. I don't remember and bird shit when I did the Rover Dihedral about a year ago. Apr 19, 2004
Joe Collins  
 
Not too bad on the doo-doo factor. I didn't particularly notice anything dramatic, so its certainly not second-pitch-of-Jules-Verne caliber. We definitely heard birds squirming around inside the crack though. Jul 24, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b R
I thought the runout face pitch above the tower to the roof was very scary! Jul 24, 2003
Here's my new-found beta for that route. First off, stellar route, the first three pitches anyway. that's all we got to. went like this: started with the crack on the left, short, phenomenal stemming & lay backing...went up the Rover dihedral - - it was way too pretty to pass up, protected very well, and ends at bolts. Why anyone would do those as 2 separate pitches I can't understand - - they linked great as one. Then the traverse and short bit up to the tree, and an epic descent taking twice as long as the climb - - long story. I didn't use anything larger than the red (#1) Camalot, and really didn't need that...small Metolius cams (blue thru red), med. and large nuts, or medium hexes, and lots of slings. Maybe the Ruper crack down low needs big stuff, as I've read, but I just hate carrying a lot of gear, and I found that by going light, I could move fast enough that I didn't need to place a lot of pro. I wonder if all 3 could be done in one pitch with some rope drag. Anyone tried that? How about linking the 4 + 5? Can a single 60m do it? Jun 14, 2002