Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: F.F.A: Wunsch/Erickson 1973
Page Views: 4,099 total · 20/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jul 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This is another excellent climb starting from the top of the Lower Ramp. If it weren't sandwiched between so many ultra-classic climbs, it might get 3 stars. Part of this route is covered under the "Roving for Love" route description.

Begin from the top of the Lower Ramp at the start of Ruper. The climb's 2nd pitch follows the obvious arching dihedral overhead.

P1- Climb the thin crack on the left (5.8, 2 fixed, purple, Metolius cams) or scramble more easily up to the right. Belay in a nice alcove directly below the beautiful, arching dihedral.

P2- Climb up to the dihedral and lieback/undercling up and left (Ruper goes out right at this point), eventually reaching a nice belay ledge at the top of the dihedral. This is a beautiful pitch of 5.9 and makes a good alternate 2nd pitch to Ruper. The first two pitches can probably be linked.

P3- Climb straight up from the belay to a left-trending crack/groove. Climb the crack and face to a decent stance under the roof (10a S). The topo for this section says "no pro", but I was able to get in a couple decent offset nuts. From the roof stance, climb right up the ramp/roof to a hidden bolt. Clip the bolt and make a funky traverse move to better holds (crux). The feet are good in this section but there isn't much in the way of hands. I shudder to think what bizarre fixed mank must have been in place on the FFA. Continue up and right to the Upper Ramp through some runout 5.9 face (watch for loose holds in here).

There are some issues on the 3rd pitch regarding belaying up the second, especially if they aren't solid following 5.11. The climb trends up and right from the crux and there isn't much gear right after this section. Best to leave a long sling on the bolt which the second can unclip AFTER pulling the crux. I also backcleaned my last piece (the only decent gear I found between the crux and the upper ramp) and belayed from an awkward spot almost directly above the crux to minimize swing potential (there is a good nut placement here to belay the second through).

From the upper ramp, continue on Alice in Bucketland, the Serpent, or any of the other adventure climbs that start in that area for an excellent day of climbing.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. HB offsets are useful.

Photos