Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | J. Erickson, J Behrens, 1969 |
Page Views: | 2,230 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 12, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is indistinct at first, and stays that way. It is also somewhat difficult to locate from the description in the book. To do this route, approach as for Yellow Spur, Neurosis, Psychosis, etc... Pass the Yellow Spur start, keeping an eye on the wall to your left. You will pass a pine tree growing against the wall which is climbed to pass the overhang and then step onto the wall (the route Rocky Raccoon) and then reach another tree just further back from the wall. Obscured by this tree is a junky, overhanging trough. This is the start to Fresh Garbage. If you continue a little further, you step down some large rocks and around a corner to the right-facing corner at the base of Neurosis, and have gone too far.
Start up the junky gully with big reaches to big holds on steep terrain. This felt like 5.10a to me. Commitment is key, and a 4" cam will help with the head. After 20' the overhang is over and the climbing is moderate, leading to a broken, sloping ledge at the base of a second overhang. An old ring-angle pin there will assure you that you are now at the former site of the first belay (Rossiter suggests "belay after 30 feet." Rather than that, place a piece high in the crack and climb the second overhang on one of 3 cracks- the center of these is what I chose, to straighten out the line as best possible. Again, it was big moves to good holds on steep territory and briefly felt like 5.10a. From there, go slightly right and continue up on crack systems to reach the top of the rock and belay at a mediaum sized tree that is almost directly below upper mellow yellow. Along the way you will pass a 3rd overhanging section of rock that is distinctly dark (black) and has a good thin finger cack through it- this can be continued up on a rib of rock just to the right of a gully/chimney and is added to this site as the climb 'Deadpoint.' It has some ~5.11 climbing and some runouts at easier grades.
Fresh Garbage in indistinct and discontinuous. As well, it has plenty of loose rock and lichen. The moves are average, but the other adversities encountered subtract any worthy rating it might otherwise get.
Ironically, I did run into a beach towel caught in a shrub along the climb. I estimate that it has been there 10+ years, as it shredded in my fingertips as I tried to liberate it from the bush that had more or less grown up around it. The garbage was anything but fresh.
Start up the junky gully with big reaches to big holds on steep terrain. This felt like 5.10a to me. Commitment is key, and a 4" cam will help with the head. After 20' the overhang is over and the climbing is moderate, leading to a broken, sloping ledge at the base of a second overhang. An old ring-angle pin there will assure you that you are now at the former site of the first belay (Rossiter suggests "belay after 30 feet." Rather than that, place a piece high in the crack and climb the second overhang on one of 3 cracks- the center of these is what I chose, to straighten out the line as best possible. Again, it was big moves to good holds on steep territory and briefly felt like 5.10a. From there, go slightly right and continue up on crack systems to reach the top of the rock and belay at a mediaum sized tree that is almost directly below upper mellow yellow. Along the way you will pass a 3rd overhanging section of rock that is distinctly dark (black) and has a good thin finger cack through it- this can be continued up on a rib of rock just to the right of a gully/chimney and is added to this site as the climb 'Deadpoint.' It has some ~5.11 climbing and some runouts at easier grades.
Fresh Garbage in indistinct and discontinuous. As well, it has plenty of loose rock and lichen. The moves are average, but the other adversities encountered subtract any worthy rating it might otherwise get.
Ironically, I did run into a beach towel caught in a shrub along the climb. I estimate that it has been there 10+ years, as it shredded in my fingertips as I tried to liberate it from the bush that had more or less grown up around it. The garbage was anything but fresh.
Photos
- No Photos -
1 Comment