Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: FA: 5.7 A2 Dave Dornan & Joe Oliver, 1960. FFA: Jim Erickson & Jim Walsh, 1968
Page Views: 3,537 total · 13/month
Shared By: Stan L on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approach Mickey Mouse Nailup as for Vertigo, Yellow Spur, etc. Begin behind a large tree about 20 feet to the left of Vertigo.

In many ways Mickey Mouse Nailup reminds me of Darkness 'Til Dawn: while hardly inspiring from the view at the bottom it is, in actuality, it is a really fun and steep route.

Start climbing on easy rock that gets progressively more difficult (and with progressively worse pro) to the crux at around 40 feet. Figure out the crux, continue up the crack past some old pins (sustained 5.9), and into a weird chimney. Exit the chimney by pulling the fin to the left- -an exceptional move- -and head to the two-bolt anchor with chains. 100 feet.

From the chains, one can either rap to the bottom or (better) continue up over easy 5.5 rock to the top of the Upper Ramp. By combining Mickey Mouse Nailup with the Italian Arete, which starts practically right where the second pitch of Mickey Mouse ends, one is treated to two of Eldorado's more zesty 5.9 climbs.

Protection Suggest change

RPs to a #3 Camalot

While the pro is not as sparse as it is on similarly rated climbs (i.e. Italian Arete, Metamorphosis, etc.), the leader should be prepared to make a couple of committing moves up to and above the crux that are well above the last piece of gear (mid-sized RP). Also, Rossiter's topo shows a pin protecting the moves near the crux. It's no longer there. Climb 100 feet and aim left to a two bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

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