Avg: 3.9 from 97 votes
Trad, 3 pitches
|FA:||ah, teenage Doub and Griffith|
|Page Views:||20,595 total · 86/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Levin on Nov 5, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
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Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Marshall Winter: it seems that the description for this route disappeared [requested by the submitter], so figured I would do a short write up with the help of Levin's guidebook.
This is a route of immense historical significance that was put up by Eric Doub and Christian Griffith when they were teenagers. Frowned upon in its day for rap bolting tactics, it has stood the test of time and is a must for any aspiring Eldo climber. This one has a bit of a reputation, but don’t let it deter you. The P3 runout is 5.9ish and very manageable. The historical significance of this route cannot be overstated.
The D-G starts on a small island ledge to the left of Super Slab the super slab start. There are two options to reach this ledge and the base of the climb. Option 1) scramble the upper ramp and locate the base of Super Slab. Do an exposed 5.4 scramble up and left from Super Slab to reach the base of the D-G. Option 2) hike up to Vertigo Ledge and do a short down climb to the base of D-G. This is a good option if you plan to do the vertigo rappels since you can leave your bag at the base of the rappels. Bang, bang.
There are two popular options for the opening pitches of this route: the original Doub-Griffith or the Dubious Graffiti variation. Dubious Graffiti is a more independent, more direct line with more 5.11 cruxes making it a more popular option.
The original Doub-Griffith:
P1: pull through a bulge off of the island ledge and head straight up on laybacks and finger locks. Follow the seam to its top and work straight right around the arete to the Super Slab belay, pumpy 5.11-, 80 feet.
P2: head straight up the corner at 5.6 until you see a bolt to your left on the arete. Follow two bolts and a pin through delicate 5.11- slab moves and scamper up to the exposed belay below the crux pitch, 5.11-, 120 feet.
P3: this is the reason you are here! This pitch oozes with historical significance. Traverse down and left to the arete, then go up to clip the first bolt. Take a deep breath, and then cast off towards bolt number two. Continue to follow the arete past three more bolts. Work right after the last bolt to meet up with Super Slab via heroic 5.9 jug hauling to the upper ramp. One can also take the more direct 5.12a variation straight up the overhanging arete for bonus points, 5.11c, 100 feet.
Dubious Graffiti variation:
P1: pull through the bulge off of island ledge, and follow the crack up via laybacks and finger locks. Once at the top of the seam, work LEFT towards a small roof protected by a bolt. After pulling the roof, gain a stance and belay, 5.11-, 70 feet.
P2: work right to the arete past two bolts. Continue straight up, and meet up with the D-G higher up on the arete, 5.11b, 120 feet.
P3: this is the same as the original D-G.
You completed a historically significant ascent of one of the best 5.11s in Colorado. Great work.