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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: ah, teenage Doub and Griffith
Page Views: 15,655 total, 80/month
Shared By: slevin on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Picture two motivated and very talented young climbers scouring the walls of Redgarden in search of a first ascent...and then seeing this line. Just like kids in a candy store.

The D-G climbs a plumbline between Vertigo and Super Slab and offers a nice mix of climbing. The following description includes the variation called Dubious Graffiti, a direct middle pitch that adds a touch more 5.11 and is more in character with the original difficult pitches.

The route is most often approached by climbing the Lower Ramp, then going left below the base of Super Slab across an exposed traverse to an island ledge. This involves a very exposed move or two of low-end 5th-class climbing, so a rope is advised. It is also possible to down climb exposed terrain from the southern terminus of the Vertigo Ledge.

P1 (5.11a). Just above the island ledge, climb a steep, clean wall with a thin crack. There often is a resident fixed nut at the crux that helps significantly. It is harder for us fat-fingered types. At the top of the crack, step left (orignal D-G goes right to the top of pitch one Super Slab), pull a small overhang at a bolt, then back right and belay (or with a 70m rope, continue).

P2 (5.11a with 5.8 PG-13). Now climb the arete to the right and clip a bolt. Do a difficult move on the arete, then punch straight up past another bolt and some fixed pins all the way to the base of the Super Slab crux pitch and belay. This is an excellent pitch.

P3 (5.11c with 5.10a PG-13). Move straight left from the belay, then up (runout) to clip the first of a line of widely-spaced bolts. The climbing is classic Eldo thin face, with good edges and nice moves. The actual crux involves a strange stand-up from a good undercling that is easy in retrospect but difficult to initiate. The climbing eases after this move, with spectacular views left to Vertigo but is still steep and a bit runout--but positive. Towards the top, move up and right, weaving your way through a bulging section. This is a good pitch, has new bolts, and climbs beautiful stone.

Now either descend the raps to the west, or the Upper Ramp to the raps below the Naked Edge, or better, continue with an Upper Wall route.

Protection

The typical Eldo stuff, including RPs and TCUs. The upper pitch is bolt protected, but the bolts are widely spaced.

Per pfinnegan: the P2 pin is broken! Per dameeser: the pin is back.
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Beautiful climbing on the best of Eldo rock!

Amendment to the description: better approach logistics is to actually hike all the way up to Vertigo ledge and do the short (10 ft) downclimb (4th class or 5.0) that drops you right at the "island ledge." Doable unroped, and easy to rope up for this short section too. Then you can have your packs and shoes waiting for you on Vertigo ledge when you rap off. Much smoother than climbing all the way up over the Lower Ramp and soloing 5th class moves to the base. The downclimb from Vertigo ledge is much easier than the traverse from Grand Giraffe ledge.

Stellar climb w/ protection in all the right places. The run-outs weren't bad and all on positive holds. May 21, 2016
A new 12a direct finish has been added to the Doub-Griffith per Park, ACE, and public review & approval in early 2014. From the last bolt on the DG (at the base of the final 5.10 headwall), look up and left for 2 bolts. It's pretty obvious - climb the hanging arete that forms the summit of the Vertigo tower. Cool position and well-protected 5.12 climbing.

The climbing to the first new bolt is about 10+. There is an optional, yellow Alien-sized placement before you start traversing left toward the first bolt.

The climbing gets progressively harder, with the crux just past the second new bolt. After pulling the crux, there is a good #2 Camalot placement in a pocket that will provide a directional for the second after they clean the last bolt. The climbing eases quickly toward the summit of the Vertigo tower. It's really nice to have a large sewn runner or cordalette (>6' diameter) to loop around the top of the tower for an anchor / directional. Belay in the normal DG / Super Slab belay spot below the summit of the tower. Optionally, you could also get good hand sized cams down behind the summit of the tower in the Vertigo crack, but you'd need a lot of long runners to reach back over the tower.

FA: Scott Bennett, April 18, 2014. Apr 28, 2014
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Combined 1&2 nicely with a single rack, didn't find a need for RPs, pro to BD #1.

Stellar climbing.

5.11 Arete tour of Redgarden:
Suparete - bolts and single rack,
Doub-Griffith - bolts and single rack,
Naked Edge - pro to 2".

Such a good afternoon! Feb 6, 2017
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.11c PG13
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.11c PG13
Wasps on P1!

Did this today. There is a small wasp nest on p1, about 8 feet after pulling the roof. I was nearly through the balancy roof moves and was pretty happy to see a left sidepull that looked like it would be a positive hold to relax on.

I noticed it had a bit of a finger pocket deeper in it, so I wiggled my fingers in deeper for more purchase and immediately felt wings buzzing against them.

Luckily I was seconding, so I just jumped off. 3-4 wasps flew out and spent a few minutes dive bombing the rock and generally looking pissed off, before flying off. With rope stretch, I fell about 6 feet below them, and they didn't seem to notice me. Subsequent visual inspection showed a small nest in the back of the seam. It appeared to be abandoned (after they flew out), and after a few falls trying to do the move without using that hold, I sucked it up and stuck my fingers back in there.

Fortunately they let my partner pass without reacting at all, he told me he didn't burrow his fingers into the pocket the way I did, so they apparently tolerated him being right over the nest.

Just a heads up, since encountering these guys could lead to more "exciting" times on lead. Sep 3, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11c PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11c PG13
Just when I didn't think this route could get any better, someone goes and does something awesome like bolting the airy direct finish! Thanks for the fine addition, boys! Mar 1, 2016
Ben Crawford
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Ben Crawford   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Sophia and I did this today with the Dubious Graffiti variation. Incredible climbing! On the third pitch, we followed the natural weakness which led about 5 feet right of the 4th bolt. It seemed pretty difficult to traverse back over, so I would recommend stepping left to the arete after the 3rd bold. I'll have to go back soon to charge the arete. Sep 4, 2015
I see the 2013 comment on the runout between the first and third bolts on the third pitch. You bet! Consider (from my armchair, I am considering) that on the FA the first bolt was AT THE CRUX. The current first bolt wasn't even there; as a teenager with the motto for leading of "Don't ever let the belayer get bored!" I simply ran it out from the Super Slab belay to the crux. Why would you need any pro for a 5.8 slab? Nowadays that sure seems like 5.10... and I recall Lidija Painkijer (the Painkiller, or the Pocket Russian) leading out from the belay, before someone retro-bolted the current first bolt, and crying out more than once, "Thees iz no five eeeiiight!" She was right.

It's great to see the enjoyment this route has brought through the years. Feb 26, 2014
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c R
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c R
There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 1 and 2 on the third pitch. Not particularly hard (5.9ish) but very scary. I vote for an R rating since a fall trying to clip the second bolt would be ugly. Mar 30, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11c R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11c R
AMAZING...Go do it! I also will say the Dubious Graffiti is the way to go. You can combine the pitches into one awesome pitch with quite a bit of 5.11. Had a bit of rope to spare with a 60m. Don't need to much of a rack. RPs and TCUs. Apr 28, 2012
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
But that ain't the DG. Let's rope up up.

Edit too add, BURLY! Mar 19, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Followed Bob up the upper 2 pitches of the Doub yesterday while wind was picking up with the storm blowing in. It was spectacular! Mental note: thin, balancy climbing on that arete with 20 mph wind and worse gusts is heady. Props to Bob for leading this thing flawlessly in some adverse conditions!

On another note, we did the Ruper start to Roll Over Rover and you can traverse hard left and work your way back to the arete and finish up the last two pitches of the Doub... but you will be crossing straight over Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, so maybe not the best linkup for a weekend day.

What a route! Mar 19, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Scott, nice job and what a great day to be up there. Yall' did "Bob's Astroman of Eldo", did you guys really think the Mellow Yellow part of the link up was still 5.11 tho? That would be proud! Mar 2, 2009
Scott Bennett
  5.11b PG13
Scott Bennett  
  5.11b PG13
Great route, with a bunch of cool possibilities for fun link-ups. We did Bob's "Astroman of Eldo" link-up of Superarete->DG->Mellow Yellow. 5 consecutive pitches of quality 5.11!
I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b.
So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time.
-Scott Mar 2, 2009
reboot
.
reboot   .
wcurudy - it most definitely is.
Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route. May 16, 2008
Does anybody know if this loose flake was involved in the recent accident? I believe it was this route...

thedenverchannel.com/news/1…
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo… Apr 30, 2008
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
Just FYI; There is a 5.10'ish rising traverse that starts from the first bolt on the third pitch and joins Super Slab as it turns the roof. May 18, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11c
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11c
As a matter of fact, we passed Eric on the way out yesterday after climbing DG. Cool Apr 2, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
For what it's worth, Eric Doub is still in the Boulder area. His north Boulder home is "net-zero" energy and rated the most energy efficient home in the state of Colorado.

Apr 1, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11c
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11c
No question about it. This is one of the best climbs around. Spectacular from start to finish! The last pitch is truly amazing. Great movement and position with just enough spice to get your pulse racing. I could climb this route everyday for a month and never get bored. Awesome day Guy! Apr 1, 2007
I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way. May 24, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c R
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c R
At the 3rd bolt on the final pitch, you can follow a natural weakness about 3ft to the right of the bolt line. The smallest ball nuts and a green Alien will protect this section. You can then traverse back to the 4th bolt (which is at your feet) and continue with the regular line. It would difficult to clip the 4th bolt, so place gear instead. Mar 6, 2006
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge otherwise. Very nice route description and I strongly concur with the Psycho Pigeon continuation! Jul 1, 2005
If, after the short first pitch, your intent is to climb Dubious Graffiti, it is best to forego the belay on the small ledge above the roof and continue to the good ledge system at the base of the final pitch. The extended pitch is about 150' of fabulous climbing with many 11 crux sections. May 30, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
There's a pretty good beta photo under Mickey Mouse Nailup that shows the upper 2 pitches Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti very clearly--it more or less falls the sun/shadow line on the right side of the photo. May 29, 2005
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
The third pitch is my favorite Eldo pitch of all time. Sep 15, 2004
I agree with Jason: the left option through the roof after the 1st pitch crux is more in keeping with the character of the climb (i.e. avoiding the belay at the top of Super Slab pitch 1). Better yet, instead of setting a belay after pulling the roof, continue up past the bolt protecting the next 5.11 section on the arete. Once past this section conitnue up to a good belay ledge, which is actually the top of pitch 2 of Super Slab. There may be a bit of rope drag if you started the climb from the base of Super Slab... this can be remedied by moving the starting belay to the flat spot directly below the first pitch of D-G.

Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp. May 7, 2003
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route! Jan 6, 2003
If you are doing the "Dubious Graffiti" middle pitch from top of pitch 1 Superslab, the bolt is clipped around the sharp arete on the left, and you climb on the right. If you fall the rope could get cut, but you'd have to be really unlucky. Apr 29, 2002
I heard a rumor that if a climber fell in a particular spot on the 1st pitch that there was rope-cut potential over a sharp edge. Anyone care to confirm? Apr 29, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Not as long, but more consistently difficult than the Edge. Pound for pound, it is every bit as good. No crowds on this thing!! Jan 11, 2002
I think this is one of the best route I have done in the canyon. I like it almost as much as The Naked Edge. I don't think it gets done nearly as much. Although it has been nearly five years since I have done the route I don't remember the first pitch being quite as hard as 11c. Steve is right on with the gear though, a couple of TCUs will give you all the malcomb you need on the finger crack first pitch.The last pitch is completely spectacular. Nov 6, 2001