Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: ah, teenage Doub and Griffith
Page Views: 20,595 total · 86/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Per Marshall Winter: it seems that the description for this route disappeared [requested by the submitter], so figured I would do a short write up with the help of Levin's guidebook.

This is a route of immense historical significance that was put up by Eric Doub and Christian Griffith when they were teenagers. Frowned upon in its day for rap bolting tactics, it has stood the test of time and is a must for any aspiring Eldo climber. This one has a bit of a reputation, but don’t let it deter you. The P3 runout is 5.9ish and very manageable. The historical significance of this route cannot be overstated.

The D-G starts on a small island ledge to the left of Super Slab the super slab start. There are two options to reach this ledge and the base of the climb. Option 1) scramble the upper ramp and locate the base of Super Slab. Do an exposed 5.4 scramble up and left from Super Slab to reach the base of the D-G. Option 2) hike up to Vertigo Ledge and do a short down climb to the base of D-G. This is a good option if you plan to do the vertigo rappels since you can leave your bag at the base of the rappels. Bang, bang.

There are two popular options for the opening pitches of this route: the original Doub-Griffith or the Dubious Graffiti variation. Dubious Graffiti is a more independent, more direct line with more 5.11 cruxes making it a more popular option.

The original Doub-Griffith:

P1: pull through a bulge off of the island ledge and head straight up on laybacks and finger locks. Follow the seam to its top and work straight right around the arete to the Super Slab belay, pumpy 5.11-, 80 feet.

P2: head straight up the corner at 5.6 until you see a bolt to your left on the arete. Follow two bolts and a pin through delicate 5.11- slab moves and scamper up to the exposed belay below the crux pitch, 5.11-, 120 feet.

P3: this is the reason you are here! This pitch oozes with historical significance. Traverse down and left to the arete, then go up to clip the first bolt. Take a deep breath, and then cast off towards bolt number two. Continue to follow the arete past three more bolts. Work right after the last bolt to meet up with Super Slab via heroic 5.9 jug hauling to the upper ramp. One can also take the more direct 5.12a variation straight up the overhanging arete for bonus points, 5.11c, 100 feet.

Dubious Graffiti variation:

P1: pull through the bulge off of island ledge, and follow the crack up via laybacks and finger locks. Once at the top of the seam, work LEFT towards a small roof protected by a bolt. After pulling the roof, gain a stance and belay, 5.11-, 70 feet.

P2: work right to the arete past two bolts. Continue straight up, and meet up with the D-G higher up on the arete, 5.11b, 120 feet.

P3: this is the same as the original D-G.

You completed a historically significant ascent of one of the best 5.11s in Colorado. Great work.

Protection

The typical Eldo stuff, including RPs and TCUs. The upper pitch is bolt protected, but the bolts are widely spaced.

Per pfinnegan: the P2 pin is broken! Per dameeser: the pin is back.

Photos