Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 175 ft (53 m)|
|FA:||Christian Griffith and Dale Goddard 1984|
|Page Views:||1,516 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Hammond on Sep 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
From the base of Chockstone Chimney, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as Italian Arete, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock.
This line is reasonably protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun!
NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but....
The crux section, however, seemed bomber.