Type: Trad, 175 ft (53 m)
FA: Christian Griffith and Dale Goddard 1984
Page Views: 2,006 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Sep 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A sweet line and a natural final pitch after Vertigo, Doub-Griffith, Super Slab, etc.... Or upon rapping CC, do this and rap it again.

From the base of Chockstone Chimney, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as Italian Arete, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock.
This line is reasonably protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun!

NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but....
The crux section, however, seemed bomber.

Location Suggest change

Start at the base of Body Tremors and Chockstone Chimney. Top out where Italian Arete does and walk back down to do Chockstone Chimney rap.

Protection Suggest change

A double set of cams through #3 Camalot and a set of nuts is more than enough. Doubles in #3 and #2 sizes were way nice. A green Alien slotted just when you want it. A bunch of shoulder slings and a couple doubles.

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